84 BASHAN. 



emblems. On a raised terrace we found carpets and 

 coffee prepared for us ; the conversation consisted chiefiy 

 of an interchange of the nsnal laborious compliments, 

 but in the course of it we learnt that the marauding party 

 we had met on the march had stolen two hundred sheep 

 from the next village. The scoundrels must have been 

 sorely grieved when they found that ' very strong man ' 

 Khasim and twenty-five barrels interposed between them 

 and the lugfjage of the Giaour. On our return the Sheikh 

 posted a guard round our tents, and sent us a lamb. It was 

 an uncommonly pretty little animal, and Cross was so over- 

 come by its winning ways that he got up in the night and 

 let it loose ; but his kindness was useless, for the lamb 

 was found in the next field in the morning, and was 

 ruthlessly despatched and made into cutlets by Moham- 

 med the cook. 



March 20th. — This morning we had a long argument 

 with Elias. He had come to me with several small extra 

 charges since we crossed the Jordan, and now expected 

 us to pay the ' backsheesh ' in return for the Sheikh's 

 hospitality. This we declined to do, and produced our 

 contract, which was fortunately precise on this question. 

 Wishing to avoid a prolonged altercation, I told Elias 

 he must make a list of all extra expenses he wished us 

 to pay as they arose, and on arrival at Damascus we 

 would shoAv it to Mr. Rogers, H.B.M.'s Consul, and abide 

 by his decision on the subject. This strategy was entirely 

 successful, and from that moment we never heard anything 

 more of the claim for extras. 



A ride of two hours and a quarter over cultivated plains 

 brought us to the walls of Bozrah. Passing, on the left, a 

 fine triumphal arch, we rode straight to the gates of the 

 fortress, over which the Turkish flag was flying. An 

 application to the commandant procured us immediate 



