EASTEEN DirLOMACY. 41 



the Sheikh had killed a near relation of Khasim, and 

 the J agreed to postpone all discussion on the subject. I 

 fancy that during the next few days, Elias's diplomatic 

 talent, which was very great, found constant employment 

 in keeping things smooth between our escort and the 

 Druses, who, living in a normal state of resistance to the 

 Government, naturally look with dislike on its officers. Our 

 dragoman must have burthened his conscience with no 

 slight weight if he really uttered half the untruths for 

 which he afterwards took credit. We were represented by 

 him as princes, Williams being specially distinguished as 

 the American prince, while Elias modestly described himself 

 as a commissioner sent by the Government to secure us 

 proper attention, and to report where it was found wanting. 

 Doubtless he played the part well, for he was a great 

 dandy in his dress, always wearing a splendid gold-shot 

 kefiyeh, and, to use his own words, he had a ' certaine poli- 

 tesse, tout a fait particuliere,' in the Arab tongue. 



March 22nd. — This morning the ground was hard with 

 white frost. This was not extraordinary, for we were en- 

 camped at a height of 4,000 feet, and snow lay in patches 

 not far above us. We despatched our baggage-mules, under 

 Mohammed's charge, straight over the hills to Kunawat, 

 as we intended to take a considerable circuit in order to 

 visit Suweideh and Atil. 



A sea of mist covered the plain below us, and before long 

 the fleecy billows broke against and rolled up the hillsides, 

 enwrapping us in their chilly folds. A short ride across 

 a brow, covered with stunted oaks, and watered by 

 numerous springs, brought us to Kufr. The place must 

 have been very large, to judge by its ruins, but its in- 

 habitants do not now appear to be numerous. In a long 

 ramble in search of the gates, 10 feet high, mentioned by 

 Porter, I came across relics of a Roman temj)le, many 



