EXCAVATIONS AT EPHESUS. 69 



hj meeting a hoy playing the primitive Pan-pipe, and by 

 seeing a pretty fountain at which a bevy of nymphs were 

 bathing. We got back to Aiasalook (the station nearest 

 Ephesus) in the evening, and were kindly housed and 

 entertained by Mr. Wood, who has spent some time in ex- 

 cavating the ruins, with a view to the discovery of the site 

 of the famous Temple of Diana. Before his excavations, 

 the ruins of Ephesus left above-ground had suffered too 

 severely, from time and violence, to be of great interest to 

 anyone but an antiquarian ; much, however, has now been 

 brought to light. The theatre, the scene of the goldsmiths' 

 riot, is the most striking sight ; the stage has been laid 

 bare, and many inscriptions have been found. Some of the 

 recently excavated marbles are as white as on the day they 

 were cut. The city was built mostly of brick, encased in 

 various marbles, of which fragments strew the ground in 

 every direction. Mr. Wood has also discovered a small 

 building, which, on the strength of some Christian symbols, 

 he rather boldly calls the Tomb of St. Luke ; a marble basin 

 of noble dimensions, and a sort of ' Via Sacra ' outside the 

 walls, lined with sarcophagi and funeral inscrij)tions. When 

 we were there he believed himself to have settled, within 

 a square mile, the position of the Temple of Diana, and 

 seemed quite confident of turning it up sooner or later. 



Our second excursion was to Manissa (Magnesia ad Sipy- 

 lum), a fine Turkish town built on a steep slope at the base 

 of the splendid crags of Mount Sipylus. We drove on several 

 miles, in a Turkish cart, to see the statue called Niobe, a 

 rude figure, probably of Egyptian origin, carved on the face 

 of a cliff. On the way we had a distant view of a fine snowy 

 mountain, Boz-Dagh, far away in the interior, beyond 

 Sardis. We returned to Smyrna the same evening. 



On Saturday, April 25th, we left Smyrna on board an 

 Austrian steamer for Constantinople. The boat was 



