80 TRANSCAUCASIA. 



arms into tlie country. We had expected, on landing in 

 Enssia, to be struck, after the universal untidiness of the 

 East, by the appearance of a well-dressed European sol- 

 diery, but, to our surprise, the men we saw were clad in 

 worn-out grey suits, and were physically of the most 

 wretched appearance. Partly owing to the exertions of 

 our companion the Colonel, the departui-e of the river-boat 

 up the Eion was delayed until passengers from the 

 Black Sea steamer could get on board, and after a stay 

 of only an hour and a half, we left Poti behind us ; I shall 

 therefore postpone its description till our return, and at 

 once carry my readers up the country. 



The voyage up the Eion from Poti to Orpiri occupies 

 eight hours, and on a clear day, such as we were favoured 

 with, is most beautiful. The stream, a short distance above 

 its mouth, makes several bends, each of which discloses a 

 charming vista. Thick forests clothe the banks ; and over 

 the trees glitter the peaks of ' the frosty Caucasus.' One 

 summit, exactly at the end of a long reach of the river, 

 strikingly resembled in form the snowy side of the Grivola. 

 On the right we had always the Turkish ranges, which 

 sink in beautifully- shaped hills into the basin of the Eion. 

 Por the first four hours of our voyage, both shores were 

 covered with primeval forests, and the country was low 

 and swampy, the only signs of life being a few log-huts, 

 or a Mingrelian horseman riding past. One man raced 

 the boat for some way, and we had time to remark his 

 costume. The most striking part was the long frock-coat, 

 the breast of which was decorated with a row of cartridge- 

 pouches ; and the ' baschlik,' or Caucasian hood, with two 

 long tails, used to wind round the neck in case of wet ; 

 this, with the big sheepskin cloak common to the country, 

 forms a most efficient protection even against an Eastern 

 deluge. The stream, averaging from 200 to 300 yards in 



