86 TRANSCAUCASIA. 



inside. The framework, however, seemed solid, and the 

 necessary repairs being promised, we settled to start next 

 morning. This was the first illustration we had of the 

 extraordinary mismanagement of the post-yards in the 

 Caucasian provinces. Every carriage, as soon as it gets 

 out of order or often before, instead of being repaired or 

 kept under a shed, is left to rot and to fall pieces in the 

 open air. 



We amused ourselves during the day by strolling 

 about the outskirts of the place, which consist of detached 

 dwellings surrounded by little gardens, and entered a 

 Russian church, where the singing was remarkably good. 

 On the hill on the western bank of the Eion, behind 

 the great hospital which overlooks the town, are the ruins 

 of a very fine Byzantine cathedral. Four lofty pillars, 

 still remaining, once supported a central dome. The 

 porch, now fitted up as a chapel, is very curious, and we 

 remarked the ram's head introduced into its sculpture, 

 as though the legend of the Golden Fleece had been 

 known and appreciated by its builders. In the graveyard 

 near is a very pretty monument, a small bronze angel 

 raised on a pedestal. 



On our return we found Count Simonivitch, the police- 

 master of the district, looking out for us : he pro]30sed to 

 make arrangements for horses for our use on the morrow, 

 if we wished to visit the old monastery of Gelathi, some 

 five miles distant ; but we were anxious to arrive at Tiflis, 

 and declined his kind offer. The Count proved an ex- 

 ceedingly pleasant acquaintance, and amused us much 

 by his account of journeys in which he had accompanied 

 Sir Henry Eawlinson, for whose knowledge of languages 

 he seemed to entertain a great respect. Amongst other 

 anecdotes, he told us of a curious superstition still preva- 

 lent in Armenia. In that country (I have forgotten the 



