THE GOKCHA LAKE. 119 



effectually took the bark out of two dogs tliat veutured to 

 set up derisive howls at the discomfited horseman. 



Having- reached a better piece of road, we trotted 

 brisklj on in j)ursuit of Paul, who had been sent ahead 

 to procure horses at the next station, leaving Fran- 

 9ois, a safe but not brilliant rider, to keep an eye on 

 the baggage. The post-peoj)le refused to give us riding- 

 horses, on the ground of having no saddles or bridles. 

 We had learnt by this time to be too glad to get on any- 

 how to argue the question, and thankfully took posses- 

 sion of the miserable ' paraclodnaia ' provided us. The 

 posthouse was close to the lake, along which our course 

 lay for the next stage. The shores are steep, and the 

 road consequently climbs up, down, and round the pro- 

 montories, occasionally venturing on a pitch about the 

 steepness of an ordinary house-roof. A rocky island, about 

 a quarter of a mile from the shore, and a village built on 

 a bold peninsula, are the only objects which seem worthy 

 of notice. Elenovka, situated at the west end of the 

 lake, where the shore is low, and the waters find an out- 

 let, stands in a wide sea of mud, with hovels, arranged 

 more or less in the form of a street, scattered amongst it. 

 A strong odour of dried fish revealed at once the staple of 

 industry ; the salmon-trout of the Gokcha Lake are famous, 

 and are sent both to Tiflis and Erivan. The postmaster was 

 a Jew, and talked a little German ; but he had neither 

 horses nor ' telegas,' and did not seem to know when he was 

 likely to have them. After a delay of three hours we got 

 two horses, and, with Paul as my companion, I pushed 

 forward, to make, if possible, all ready at the next station ; 

 as we were unwilling to give up the hope, faint though 

 it was, of reaching Erivan that night. Fancy the wildest, 

 ugliest part of Wales in bad weather, with mountains, 

 swamps, and rainstorms all on an enlarged scale, and some 

 feeble idea may be formed of this part of Armenia, as we 



