OUR COSSACK ESCORT. 131 



the tributary we had just crossed lias a similar task. The 

 track follows its channel, between two walls of sandstone 

 rock, and it is necessary twice to ford the stream. We 

 had barely effected the first passage when the off-fore- 

 wheel of our crazy vehicle fell to pieces. Had it done so 

 a minute earlier, both we and our luggage would have 

 been drenched, and, as the current was deep and strong, 

 probably seriously injured by the accident. Fortunately, 

 we were only some six miles from our destination, and 

 the road was smooth ; so we crowded into the remaining 

 cart, the harness of which instantly gave way under the 

 extra strain, but was promptly repaired. 



As we trotted quickly down the long slope which leads 

 to Djulfa, we amused ourselves by contrasting our wretched 

 trap and magnificent escort. Had our carriage been a 

 little better, we might have fancied ourselves royal per- 

 sonages, with an outrider cantering in front, and two 

 Cossacks trotting on either side. The Cossacks here have no 

 fixed uniform ; their dress is a conical Tartar hat, a 

 cloth coat, generally blue or brovm, a silk shirt coming 

 down to the knee, and long leather boots with turn-up 

 toes. They carry a more or less extensive armoury, but 

 none have less than a sword, gun, and pistol. On the 

 road they amused themselves and us by feats of horseman- 

 ship. One of them was particularly clever in picking up 

 his gun from the ground without dismounting, and with 

 apparent ease. These men neither rise in their stuTuijs 

 English-fashion, nor sit close like the Ai-abs, but trot for 

 hours, alongside the ' telega,' in a standing position. We 

 afterwards made trial of this mode of riding, and Tucker 

 asserts that he found it a grateful change from the ordi- 

 nary style, to which a Tartar saddle, short, narrow, and 

 hard, is certainly very ill-adapted. 



Djulfa, the most southern outpost of the Eussiau Empii-e 



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