A FRIEXD IX XEED. 135 



tlie intei'val we hired some of them to convey us to the 

 station, to which we rode in an imposing caravan, Fran- 

 9ois leading the way with great solemnity. We found the 

 head of the custom-house was the man to whom Monsieui- 

 Ealli had told us to apply for help. As he spoke a few 

 words of French, we were able personally to explain our 

 needs to him ; and we were at once taken to his room, 

 where he made a sofa for Tucker with his carpets, and 

 shared with us his dinner, a most excellent mutton-broth. 

 We found that our Russian paper-money would be useless 

 beyond the frontier, and consequently had to change into 

 tomans (a rude silver coin about the size and value of a 

 franc) a sum sufficient for the next two days' journey. 



From Djulfa to Tabreez is a distance of about ninety miles, 

 which is divided into four stages. In Persia, as through- 

 out the East where Russian influence has not yet intro- 

 duced that doubtful luxury of civilisation, the * telega,' 

 wheeled carriages are the exception, and all the traffic and 

 commerce of the country is carried on horse and camel 

 back. The post-stations vary from sixteen to twenty-five 

 miles apart, and the ordinary plan is to ride one stage in 

 the morning, rest in the heat of the day, and start again 

 with fresh horses towards evening. In this way from forty 

 to sixty miles a day may be ridden without too much 

 fatigue. We found no difficulty in obtaining animals to 

 carry us the first stage, which Tucker now felt himself 

 equal to undertaking. There was not, however, a sj)are 

 horse for the postboy, who had in consequence to inin 

 along by our side, until we met some return-horses, one of 

 which he mounted. Our saddles were in various stages of 

 decay, and of most remarkable construction, with narrow 

 seats and high peaks in front; the stirrups were ludi- 

 crously short, and incapable of being lengthened, so that 

 our knees suifered no sligrht torture after we had been a 



