ARALYKH. 155 



tlie very foot of the mountain, at the commencement of the 

 long miiform slope, which serves as a pedestal to the upper 

 and more precipitous cone. On our arrival, despite our hot 

 and dusty appearance, we were most cordially received by 

 the officer in command of this out-of-the-way post, who 

 has a comfortable house and the company of a wife to 

 console him for his banishment from civilisation. He 

 insisted on giving up his study to our use, and at once set 

 about making the arrangements for our intended expedi- 

 tion, which were somewhat complicated, as the natives are 

 as yet little accustomed to travellers visiting the mountain. 

 The Colonel entertained us most hospitably, and insisted 

 on our allowing him to procure the provisions we should 

 require for the ascent. Unfortunately, neither he nor his 

 wife could speak any language but Russian, which made 

 our communications rather laborious, especially for Paul, 

 who was in constant request as interpreter. 



On the morning of June 7th, we set off from Aralykh 

 on our expedition against Ararat. We were accompanied 

 by a Kurd chief, in the Russian service — in whose charge 

 the Colonel had placed us — and his servant ; four Persians, 

 the owners of the horses, and three Kurds, who were 

 supposed to be mountaineers, and capable of acting as 

 porters. 



Starting on horseback for a ' grand course ' is not quite 

 in accordance with Alpine ideas; but when it is remembered 

 that Aralykh is only 2,600 feet above the sea, and that the 

 lower slopes of Ararat are perfectly uniform, bare and 

 stony, we shall be excused for avoiding the dreary grind 

 up them, under an Araxes-valley sun. At first we kept a 

 course parallel to the river, but soon turned towards the 

 great mountain, and began to ascend sensibly. We next 

 skirted the base of a green bastion commanding the lower 

 slopes, in the hollows and shelves of which several groups 



