START FOE THE MOUXTAIXS. 179 



CHAPTER YIL 



THE KEESTO"^AJA GORA AND ASCENT OF KAZBEK. 



Start for the Mountains — The Pass of the Caucasus — Kazbek Post-station 

 — The Governors — AKeconuaissanee in force — Legends — Avalanches — The 

 Old Men's Chorus — Men in Armour — Our Bivouac — A Critical Moment 

 — Scaling an Icewall — The Summit — The Descent — A Savage Glen — A 

 Night with the Shepherds — Return to the Village — Caucasian Congratu- 

 lations. 



When our vehicle drove into the courtyard, we, ignorant 

 still of the utter uncouthness of all Russian convej^ances, 

 were surprised to find a mere shell of a carriage without 

 any fitments inside. However, by making- use of our own 

 lug-gage and rugs, we soon succeeded in heaping together 

 seats, which, if they had a tendency to collapse, were 

 luxurious in comparison to those of our late * telegas.' 

 Amidst the good wishes of the hangers-on of the hotel, 

 we started on the journey which was to cany out the 

 object long and anxiously planned, and throughout all our 

 wanderings steadily kept in view, as the centre and chief 

 aim of our travels — the exploration of the ten'a incognita 

 of the Caucasian range. 



We slowly jolted over the badly-paved streets of Tiflis, 

 now about to be strewn with earth to spare the bones 

 of the expected Archduke — a proceeding which, if the 

 weather held fine for a few days, would be certain to throw 

 dust even in imperial eyes. Our coachman, a regular 

 Russian peasant, stupid, obstinate, and good-humoured, 

 crossed the WoronzoflE" Bridge and took a road along the 

 left bank of the Kur, which passed through several 

 villages, and, though hilly, was more direct than the 



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