214 THE TKREK VALLEY. 



in these primitive fortresses, which, from tlieir walls 

 sloping inwards towards the top, closely resemble, from 

 a distance, a collection of exaggerated brick-kilns ; many 

 of them are in ruins. In passing through Kektris we 

 were put in bodily fear by the dogs — a magnificent 

 race, as big as the St, Bernard, and of the same colour, 

 but with shaggier coats and even more sagacious faces. 

 The narrow lane wound along between the houses, on 

 the roofs of which our enemies took their stand, greeting 

 us with savage barking and every demonstration of a 

 desire to rush down and eat us. I believe, however, that 

 this ferocity is more apparent than real. At Abano our 

 horsemen selected a lodging for us at the house of the 

 wealthiest man in the village, where we found a clean 

 upper room with two bedsteads. Supper was promised, 

 and we had nothing to complain of in our reception, as 

 a samovar was quickly brought and a fowl slaughtered for 

 our benefit. 



July 4th. — In the morning a dispute arose with our host 

 as to the payment we should make, and we were obliged to 

 resist his excessive demands. The valley did not increase 

 in interest as we mounted it. There are few duller walks 

 in a mountain coiuitry than that from Abano to Gumara ; 

 the trough of the Terek is bare, and destitute of any natu- 

 ral attractions, and a glimpse of the fine snovrj^ head of 

 Gumaran Khokh, up a side glen, forms but a momentary 

 relief to the general dulness. This part of the Kazbek 

 group deserves exploration ; its glaciers and ridges are 

 laid down in the vaguest way on the Five Verst Map, and 

 the only fact I can state concerning it is, that it sends out 

 a large ice-stream, known as the Gumaran glacier, the head 

 of which probably abuts on that of Orzviri. From hence 

 to Res the distance was not great, and the change in the 

 scenery showed that we were drawing close to the head of 



