A LONG ARGUMENT. 215 



the valley. The slopes became less uniform, while bolder 

 and loftier summits rose around us. The hamlet of Ees, 

 where our baggage-horses were to be left, is a cluster of 

 stone hovels, perched one above the other on a steep hill- 

 side. We unladed our packs in the middle of it, and 

 sitting down on some stones began our kmch, while the 

 question of porterage "Was discussed with the inhabitants, 

 who of course soon gathered round us. They were a 

 handsome but ruffianly -looking lot, but we had become 

 too much accustomed during the last six months to find 

 ourselves among queer company to think much of their 

 appearance. The first demand made was that we should 

 hire ten men to carry our luggage to Zacca, the highest 

 village in the Ardon valley, and that we should pay 

 them two roubles apiece, which would have made the 

 whole sum twenty roubles, or 21. 15s. We offered them 

 half, which they at first contemptuously refused, but finally 

 accej)ted, when we, as a stratagem, ordered the horses to be 

 reladen, and pretended to be about to return the way we 

 had come. The packs, which were ludicrously light (not 

 above one-third of the weight ordinarily carried by Swiss 

 peasants), naving been with much difficulty and loss of 

 time adjusted, we started for the pass, which was now 

 visible in front of us. A strong stream, flowing out of a 

 snowy hollow in the northern chain, had to be crossed, and 

 gave some trouble to those who attempted to perform the 

 feat dryshod. The men made the passage an excuse for 

 a long delay while they rearranged their shoes. 



The sandals of the mountaineers of the Caucasus are 

 too peculiar to be passed over without a description. A 

 tangle of leather bands is stuffed with dry grass and 

 bound round the foot, so that the sole is renewable at 

 pleasure ; these remarkable boots seem to be everlasting, 

 and at the same time to afford the feet sufficient protection 



