230 TilK HI ON VALLEV. 



followed it more leisurely, sweeping- over fine pasturages. 

 Suddenly we came to the corner, where the hillsides 

 trended away to the west, and looked down for the first 

 time on a large portion of the upper Rion basin, in which 

 term I include the valley of its first considerable tributary, 

 the Glola-Squali. Few people who have not seen an 

 absolutely treeless district can appreciate the magical 

 effect of coming out of one, suddenly, into a densely-forested 

 region. Below us was the head of a deep valley, the 

 slopes covered with birch and ash, mingled lower down 

 with noble pines, the dark green of which came out in 

 strong contrast to the lighter foliage. Spur behind spur, 

 ridge behind ridge, carried the eyes up to a cluster of 

 finely-shaped peaks on the southern side of the river, 

 which, like the Ardon, is enclosed by mountain-ranges, and 

 finds an outlet through a narrow gorge. We stood for 

 some time in delighted surprise, and agreed that we had 

 never seen a landscape more beautiful, lit up as it was by 

 the afternoon sun, which had burst through the clouds, 

 and was shining with that special brilliancy so common in 

 the interval between heavy storms. We soon found our- 

 selves among the trees. Scattered birches first hung their 

 graceful branches over the path ; the mountain-ash next 

 appeared, accompanied by many varieties of flowering 

 shrubs, and by flowers (such as campanulas and wild roses) 

 the presence of which betokened a more genial soil and 

 climate. 



From its position on the map we had counted on 

 Gurschavi as a desirable resting-place, and when the 

 hamlet came in sight, its lovely position determined us at 

 once to make it, if possible, our headquarters for a day or 

 two. A dozen wooden cottages, more resembling an untidy 

 Swi ss village than the stone fortresses of the Ossetes, were 

 perched on the edge of a triangular meadow projecting 



