GURSCHAVI. 231 



from tlie base of the mountain. No less than three glens 

 opened up behind it, all more or less tempting to an 

 explorer, and in front the position commanded a wide view 

 of the basin of the Eion and the peaks on its southern 

 side. The main chain was hidden by the intervening 

 buttresses. The road makes an immense zigzag down the 

 valley to reach the bottom of the ravine under the village ; 

 but after runnmg down a short cut, and climbing some 200 

 feet on the other side, we found ourselves close to the 

 houses, which are surrounded by a remarkably fine planta- 

 tion of stinging-nettles. There was no one loitering out- 

 side, so we put our heads into the nearest cottage, and 

 found a large low room with a few benches and stools, 

 which opened into another with a fireplace in the centre, 

 occupied by two old women, to whom Paul addressed 

 himself. At first there seemed likely to be some difficulty, 

 as Caucasian etiquette prevented our lodging in the same 

 house as the beauties before us ; but we had spied out a 

 very unexpected luxury, in some joints of beef hanging up 

 to one of the rafters, and were quite determined not to be 

 put off. Opposite the cottage was a well-built barn ; on this 

 we set our eyes as a likely resting-place, and made our 

 way into it. A heap of hay filled one corner, and the 

 i^lace looked quite habitable, although somewhat glooomy 

 from the want of a window. More natives soon turned up, 

 and, finding we should be contented with the accommoda- 

 tion of the barn, they set to work with a will to make the 

 place as comfortable as possible. One swept it out, 

 another fetched a bench, and Paul found everybody 

 willing to aid him in his culinary operations. While he 

 prepared a steak, we sent Francois to cut some young 

 nettles, which, when chopped up and boiled, make an 

 excellent vegetable, scarcely distinguishable from spinach. 

 The hamlet was a small one, and during all the time of 



