270 CAUCASIAN GLACIEKS AXD FOEESTS. 



from a distance, looks like a large feudal castle. Some 

 of tlie houses are built in a knot, as closely as j)0ssible 

 together ; others are scattered round an open space like a 

 village-green. In the centre of this Ave observed a small 

 wooden building, round which was gathered a crowd of 

 idlers ; we rightly surmised that Paul had taken up his 

 quarters there, and was now the centre of attraction. He 

 was of course delighted to see us, having spent three 

 rather melancholy days, surrounded by the inquisitive and 

 troublesome villagers ; no difficulties however had arisen, 

 and the lodge which had been assigned to him was far 

 more comfortable than we had any right to expect. It 

 consisted of two rooms and a balcony ; in the outer apart- 

 ment there was a bench and a fireplace ; the inner we 

 constituted our bedroom. We never entirely satisfied 

 ourselves as to the use to which the building was com- 

 monly put, but, as far as we could understand the explana- 

 tion given through Paul by the villagers, it was designed as 

 a kind of court-house, where the elders might meet, and 

 any public business be transacted. 



A tall fine-looking peasant, the headman of the place, 

 came formally to bid us welcome, and to assure us that all 

 our wants should be supplied. A high sheepskin hat dis- 

 tinguished him from the general crowd, numbering at least 

 150 men and boys, who, attracted by our arrival, had 

 formed a circle outside the door to watch our proceedings. 

 There was even a greater variety of head-gear amongst 

 the peasants of Gebi than in the bazaar of Kutais. Some 

 carried the ' baschlik ' with the hood over the head, and the 

 point turned upwards like a fool's-cap ; a few wore the small 

 Mingrelian bonnet, almost invisible in the middle of their 

 heavy shocks of hair ; the greater number had soft felt wide- 

 awakes — a bell- shape was perhaps the most fashionable, but 

 no two could be found exactly ahke. Even the boys were 



