320 SUANETIA. 



like that of tlie Rion valley. Tlie cliaracter they bear is 

 not quite so bad as that of their neighbours of the upper 

 glens, but they seem to lead the same violent quarrelsome 

 life, full of petty squabbles, in which it is perhaps difficult 

 to di'aw the line between war and murder. 



We had eagerly caught at the proposal that we should 

 seek lodgings with a priest, but his house was shut up and 

 deserted, and we were taken on to a neighbouring cottage. 

 The first room offered to us was large, gloomy, and stable- 

 like; when our eyes grew accustomed to the darkness, we 

 found that the furniture consisted of two or three curiously- 

 carved armchairs, of the broad and shallow shape com- 

 mon in the Caucasus, and a hay-bed covered with some 

 cloths of very decided uncleanliness. Mysterious sounds 

 issued from one corner of the apartment, occupied by a 

 row of wooden hutches, also a good deal carved. They 

 proved to be occupied by an old sow, whose dwelling we 

 were to have the honour of sharing. Thinking we might 

 go further and fare better, we asked what was above the 

 pigstye, and found a hay-barn, clean, and, if draughty, at 

 least free from the stifling atmosphere which had driven 

 us from below. Here we took ujd oui- quarters and spent 

 the night, sleeping on the hay. 



July 21st. — The first matter which required our atten- 

 tion was the reorganisation of our baggage-train. The 

 two Davkar porters, who had carried heavy loads, and 

 walked fairly well, did not care to go further from home 

 without an increase in the rate of pay, and the master of 

 the house seemed desirous to supply a second horse and 

 come with us. As a matter of course, when the arrange- 

 ment was, as we thought, concluded, the fellow struck to 

 see if he could not get more ; but we finally succeeded in 

 settling the business, paid off the porters, and started 

 afresh with our new companion. The weather was still 



