346 FROM PARI TO PATIGORSK. 



yards out of the way, to visit a very rudely-constructed 

 and now deserted log-hut, where, in partial shelter from 

 the incessant rainstorm, we ate some food. 



Not altogether to our surprise, the porters refused to 

 re-shoulder their packs, and demanded immediate payment, 

 declaring that they had fulfilled their contract to take us 

 over to Baksan, and persistently ignoring the express 

 stipulation we had made with them, that Baksan was to 

 be taken as meaning the chief village in the upper valley. 

 One of the men, who had been disagreeable in his manner 

 throughout, now became very violent, and made pretence 

 of drawing his dagger. Moore took the leading part in 

 the diplomacy on our side. His policy was to ignore the 

 ruffian, and refuse to have dealings with any but the two 

 men with whom we had first made the agreement at Pari, 

 who were far the best of the party, and little disposed to 

 join in the violence of some of their companions. The 

 rage of the chief ruffian at being ignored was ludicrous, 

 but, after a long and wearisome wrangle, the malcontents 

 gave in, and the train again got into motion — the virtue of 

 the well-disposed men being confirmed by the promise of 

 an extra rouble on our arrival at Uriispieh, if no fm-ther 

 questions occurred. 



Although we had no more rows, the delays to which we 

 were subjected were frequent and vexatious. It is a trial of 

 temper to sit on a log, wet through, out of sorts, and in a 

 pouring rain, whil6 half your attendants hurry off without 

 apparent purpose, and the remainder refuse to stir until 

 their companions return. We learnt, afterwards, that the 

 men were looking for the shepherds, whom they knew 

 to be somewhere in the neighbourhood with their flocks. 

 Having been living for the last three days on the pro- 

 visions they carried with them from home — which consisted 

 only of coarse flour, baked every evening on hot stones by 



