A DIFFICULT FOKD. 395 



time elapsed, and yet no satisfactory intelligence came 

 from the bridge ; we settled, therefore, to drive down and 

 ascertain the real state of the case, and whether it was not 

 possible to ford the stream. We found that the central pile 

 of the bridge, with the roadway, had been swept clean away; 

 and as there seemed no prospect of a speedy repair of the 

 damage, there was nothing to be done but to encounter 

 the muddy flood. After our June experiences in the 

 Araxes valley, this seemed to us, though a formidable, by 

 no means a terrific task, and we encouraged our driver, by 

 every means in our power, to dare the deed. He, however, 

 did not view the matter in the same light, and entu-ely 

 refused to adventure his precious life, except under the 

 guidance of three Tcherkesses, who had just ridden up 

 and offered their assistance, — for a consideration. After 

 some delay, a bargain was struck, and driving some little 

 distance up the stony river-bed, we forded successfully, 

 though not without serious difficulty, the first branch ; the 

 second was easier, but the third was too much for our 

 driver's pluck, and he flatly refused to go a yard further. 

 We were, therefore, obliged to unpack all our baggage, and 

 to ride across, carrying it on the horses of the Tcherkesses. 

 The force of water was really formidable, and the wiry 

 little steeds had some difficulty to maintain their footing. 

 Safely landed on the further side, we had still to wait 

 until sufficient horses could be found, in the adjacent 

 village, to mount us and our men. For two weary hours, 

 unable to leave ovir baggage, we sat fretting and fuming 

 by the waters of Baksan, until Paul at last appeared with 

 a bullock-cart for the traps, and saddle-horses for us. 



A fresh delay now arose. The man of whom we hired the 

 horses had prepared a meal for us, and Ave found it would 

 be a gross breach of good manners to refuse to partake 

 of it. We therefore entered his cottage, and, sitting down 



