406 THE TCIIEREK VALLEY. 



The Sheikh * himself, a tall venerable-looking old man, 

 came forward to invite us to his house, which, like all the 

 r^st, was a low one-storied building, with a portico, sup- 

 ported on massive trunks, running along the whole of the 

 front. At one end was a small room reserved for the recep- 

 tion of strangers, which we were invited to enter. It was, 

 at first sight, a dark and comfortless-looking hole, but the 

 lighting of a fire and the appearance of some bright- 

 coloured mattrasses, which were brought for our use from 

 the Sheikh's apartments, made us very contented — espe- 

 cially as our men were to be quartered in a separate house, 

 where Paul would have abundant facilities for cooking. 

 The ' samovar ' soon appeared, accompanied by a dish of 

 cakes, made, as the Sheikh took care to inform us, by the 

 hands of his wives. The weather still looked so unsettled 

 that we did not endeavour to hurry our arrangements, and 

 were quite content with the prospect of spending a day in 

 a place where we had met with so hospitable a reception. 

 Shortly after our arrival, a MoUah came in to call on us. 

 He had given up the tunic and sheepskin of the Caucasus, 

 and wore the turban and loose robe of an ordinary Turk. 

 This was explained when we learnt that he had made the 

 Mecca pilgrimage, and of course had acquu'ed foreign man- 

 ners on the journey. He seemed an intelligent man, had 

 gleaned some confused knowledge of European politics, and 

 knew at any rate the fact that England was reputed a staunch 

 friend of Turkey, which made him very civil towards us. 

 We were surprised to learn that the natives have so strong 

 a dread of being made the subjects of religious proselytism, 

 and being compelled to worship the relics and pictures 



* At Uruspieh I have spoken of Prince — here of Sheikh— maintaining a 

 distinction which, though more nominal than real, was observed by all the 

 people of the country, and even by Russians, with whom we talked on the 

 subject. 



