403 THE TCIIEREK VALLEY. 



bringing in his wake a large supply of meat ' rissoles ' 

 smeared with honey, a finishing touch we could willingly 

 have dispensed with. Not only were we well-feasted 

 at the time, but, by the Sheikh's order, a number of 

 these dainties were put into our provision-bag. On 

 starting, when we had all mounted, a beer-jug was brought 

 out, and a stirrup-cup presented to each of us, after which the 

 Sheikh solemnly invoked 'Allah ! ' to prosper our journey. 

 Having made what requital we could for the hospitality 

 which had been shown us, we left Muchol, carrying away 

 with us pleasanter recollections of its inhabitants than of 

 those of any other village we had halted at. At Uruspieh we 

 had, it is true, received almost equal kindness ; but there 

 the princes were imbued with a tinge of Russian manners, 

 in contrast to which the patriarchal simplicity of Balkar 

 was the more striking. 



We left the village by the same road we had entered it, 

 and recrossed the river to its right bank. We were some 

 hundred yards beyond the bridge, when we saw a horse- 

 man, conspicuous by a green turban and streaming purple 

 robe, riding after us. It was the MoUah, who, unpre- 

 pared for our early start, had not been present to wish us 

 ' Goodbye,' and now, arrayed in his best, came to repair the 

 omission. After an exchange of Oriental salutations 

 and farewells, including the hearty hand-shakings which 

 are common alike to Tartars and Englishmen, our reverend 

 friend wheeled round his steed, and followed by his servant, 

 whom we made happy by a small present, returned home, 

 while we pursued our journey. The path led us through a 

 succession of cornfields, and passed two considerable villages 

 beyond which a slight westerly bend in the direction of the 

 valley hid what lay before us. When we had turned the 

 corner, the character of the scenery underwent a rapid 

 change ; the cornfields and villages of the Balkar basin 



