WOODED DEFILES. 423 



became so intense that, unable to express them by words, 

 or even by the remarkable grunt in the emission of which 

 he was so proficient, he gave point to his remarks by 

 demonstrations with his dagger — they wisely succumbed, 

 and we became as good friends as ever. 



On parting, the chief of the hay- cutters requested us to 

 take the side of his village in a disputed claim as to 

 pasturages, which the local chiefs had been unable to 

 settle, and was likely to come under Russian arbitration. 

 Following the custom of the country, we promised to do 

 anything in our power, and, after an affectionate hand- 

 shaking, set off for our day's ride with our no longer 

 refractory though somewhat sulky attendants. For some 

 distance below the hut, the Uruch continues to flow 

 through level and marshy meadows. The frequent water- 

 channels were serious impediments to our progress, as the 

 mud in them was often deep, and leaping is not a part of 

 the education of a Caucasian horse. Our baggage-mule, 

 a plucky httle animal, whose performance on the pass had 

 won our admiration, now stuck hopelessly in the mud, and 

 had to be unloaded, an incident which recalled, to Tucker 

 and myself, some of our Syrian misadventures. When 

 the river does begin to descend, it does so with a will, and 

 the ]3ath is obliged to have recom'se to very steep zigzags, 

 in order to keep pace with it. 



A description in detail of the constantly- shifting fea- 

 tures of the landscape for the next few miles would be 

 wearisome, and give little idea of the beaut}'- of the 

 scenery. The path, always at a considerable height, on 

 the left side of the valley, carried us by an alternation of 

 terraces and rapid descents through a succession of defiles, 

 adorned by fine fir-forests, enlivened by pretty waterfalls, 

 and overhung on the right by noble snowy ranges. On 

 two grass}' knolls, high on either side of the stream. 



