434 KETUKN TO TIF I. IS. 



the Persian frontier on the Araxes ; both the men and 

 their wiry little horses looked admirably adapted for such 

 duty, but ill-armed, and too little drilled to be able to 

 maintain an equal contest with Euroj)ean cavahy. 



Before starting for our drive, we had to settle matters 

 with our horsemen and the Cossack ; the former were put 

 in high good-humour by the addition of a small gratuity 

 to the sum they had bargained for, and became enthu- 

 siastic in their gratitude when we granted their request for 

 one of our photographs, which they had seen at Muchol. 

 Despite the friendliness of our parting, we could not 

 altogether forget, though we might forgive, their be- 

 haviour on the road before the Cossack joined us, and we 

 were not disposed to underrate his services in removing 

 difficulties, and aiding us in pushing on, through the 

 weather and mud of the last two days. He, too, returned 

 to his home well contented. 



The chapter of accidents, which awaited us before 

 reaching our destination, began with our very start ; the 

 plank-bridge, by which the road — -the highway of com- 

 munication bet r/een Eussia and Trans-Caucasia — crosses 

 a ditch in the street, liad been allowed to fall to decay, 

 and become impassable for wheeled vehicles. Driving 

 consequently through the water, our wheels stuck in the 

 mud, our shaft-horse refused to draw, and, desjiite the 

 blows and oaths of the driver, who, up to his waist in 

 water, harangued the refractory animals by turns, we 

 seemed likely to remain a fixture. By the aid of some 

 bystanders, who vigorously thrashed the shaft-horse, the 

 principal oifender, over the head, we were at last released, 

 and then, despite the heaviness of the track across the 

 steppe, which is noAvhere metalled, made a good pace to 

 Archonsk, the next station, crossing on the way several 

 large streams, by means of long wooden bridges. In fine 



