RUSSIAN ROADMAKING. 439 



rise, Ave were greeted by the double j)eak of Kazbek, rising 

 high above the ridges on the right of the gap of the Dariel 

 Pass. The view of the snowy chain was far finer than we 

 were prepared for. The mountains west of Kazbek, and 

 the offshoots of the Adai-Khokh group, were well seen, and 

 far away on the horizon, Dychtau once more showed his 

 snowy head. The precipices on the eastern face of this 

 tremendous peak, even from this distance, excited mingled 

 feelings of admiration and respect. Our conductor amused 

 us by piling the roof of the ' diligence' with water-melons, a 

 common article of food in Cis-Caucasia, which he meant 

 to dispose of at a profit to the masters of the stations 

 high in the mountains, where the fi'uit was not so easily 

 obtainable. 



There are three stages between Vladikafkaz and Kazbek, 

 and the distance is about twenty-eight miles. During the 

 first stage the road was well-made, and almost level ; after 

 crossing a flat meadow, where we passed a portion of the 

 garrison engaged in drill and rifle-practice, it runs between 

 low hills along the banks of the Terek. The vapours, 

 Avliich almost daily cover the northern plains, had already 

 risen, and it was curious to see them brea.king like waves 

 against the steeper slopes before us, while a glimpse up 

 the gap of the Dariel showed that further in the mountains 

 the sky was of an unclouded blue. Shortly before reaching 

 Balta, we passed tw^o carriages, filled by the family of a 

 Russian gentleman, travelling with so numerous a party 

 that they required twelve horses to draw them. The spot 

 where the Terek had swept away the road w^as a mile or 

 two beyond the station. The accident had arisen fi-om 

 the half-hearted and timid way in which the work had 

 been originally carried out. On the flat, or where the 

 soil is friable, no finer highway could be desired ; but 

 directl}' a hard mass of rock which requires blasting is 



