448 EETURX TO TIFLIS. 



enlightened us on some matters of detail, indicating the 

 existence of large icefields, and confirming our belief in 

 the practicability of our proposed route, by marking 

 numerous passes across the chain, and showing groups of 

 villages near the heads of most of the valleys. The map 

 also first revealed to us two mountains, Kosehtantau and 

 Dychtau, respectively 17,000 and 16,900 feet in height, 

 yet hitherto unknown to English geographers. 



The real character of the tribes, and the extent to which 

 Russian rule was a reality in the more remote districts, 

 was another topic which interested us nearly as much 

 as the nature of the country. On this subject we had 

 read contradictory reports. The majority of travellers des- 

 cribed the natives of the mountains as robbers, in whose 

 word no trust could be placed — barbarians by nature, and 

 incapable of civilisation. On the other hand, they were 

 painted, by a few enthusiasts, as noble patriots, whose 

 only crime was to have been defeated in an unequal struggle 

 against an invading despotism. We were unanimously 

 assured at Kutais and Tiflis that the subjugation of the 

 inhabitants was complete, and that there was no longer 

 any risk to life or property in travelling amongst them. 

 Each informant had his own view as to their character, 

 but, satisfied with the fact that our journey would not be 

 rendered impracticable, we were content to wait and judge 

 for ourselves. 



Such was our knowledge of the Caucasus and its inhabi- 

 tants on leaving Tiflis for Kazbek posthouse. I shall 

 now proceed to the results of our day-by-day experiences 

 during the two months we spent in. the mountains. A 

 definite idea of the scenery of the Caucasian chain will 

 best be formed by comparing and contrasting it to that of 

 the Alps. 



The first feature that strikes the traveller is the single- 



