HINTS FOR TRAVELLERS. 461 



will be met with in such an enterprise, and how best they 

 may be encountered. For some years to come travellers 

 in the Caucasus will find letters of introduction to the 

 government officials a useful, if not essential, part of 

 their outfit. Without them they may be objects of sus- 

 picion, and their purpose in desiring to penetrate the 

 fastnesses of the mountain-tribes may be misunderstood. 

 Some people say that a uniform is absolutely necessary in 

 Russia; though this is not the case, those who hold 

 any position entitling them to wear an official dress will 

 do well to take it. In the East even more than in the 

 West, and above all among Russian officials, ' fine feathers' 

 ^re considered to make ' fine birds,' and even an old 

 Volunteer tunic would protect its wearer from much rude- 

 ness from postmasters and sub-officials. 



The selection of a starting-point will depend upon the 

 tour proposed by the traveller. Tiflis is far from the 

 mountain-chaiji, but the fact that there only can the 

 necessary maps be bought, will induce even those to whom 

 a city combining, in such a striking manner, the discor- 

 dant elements of European and Asiatic life is not a 

 sufficient attraction, to visit the Trans-Caucasian capital. 

 Vladikafkaz is the best base for the exploration of the 

 northern valleys. It is the residence of the commandant of 

 the district, and the Cis-Caucasian officials appreciate better 

 the aims of an explorer, and are more practical in the aid 

 they affi^rd him, than those at Tiflis. Kutais is admirably 

 situated as a starting-point for the Mingrelian valleys, 

 and next year will probably be brought nearer to the 

 Black Sea coast, by the partial opening of the Poti-Tifiis 

 Railroad ; while Patigorsk is a convenient Capua, within 

 two days' ride of the base of Elbruz. 



The first necessity for a journey in the mountains is a 

 servant ready to rough it, and sufficiently conversant with 



