47-2 TRANSCAUCASIA. 



ing's, and reminding- ns of a small Swiss inn — serves as an 

 hotel. We had plenty of time during- the afternoon to 

 stroll about the neighbourhood, and contrast the attrac- 

 tions of Abastnman with those of the other Caucasian 

 watering-places. Situated in a basin surrounded on all 

 sides by wooded hills, the place is necessarily without any 

 distant view, and depends on its home-scenery. The 

 stream is crossed by rustic bridges, and the small arbours, 

 which crown the rock}'" points projecting everywhere from 

 the hillsides, give a cockney air to the place which is the 

 last thing one would expect in so retired a corner of Asia. 

 Owing to its elevation (4,178 feet above the sea), Abastuman 

 enjoys a comparatively cool climate during the summer 

 months, when it is much frequented by the Russian resi- 

 dents both of Kutais and Achaltzich, the latter town 

 being fearfully hot. It cannot, however, claim to rival 

 Borjom in the rank and fashion of its visitors, and in one 

 essential attraction it is far inferior. The band was small 

 and indifferent, but the audience seemed little critical, 

 and crushed any sense of its deficiencies by dancing vigo- 

 rously to a sorry performance of the ' Guards' Waltz.' 



September 3rd. — The morning was again lovely, a matter 

 of some importance, as we were about to cross the moun- 

 tain ridge dividing us from Mingrelia. We set out at 

 5 A.M., and rode for several miles through a narrow valley, 

 where the road constantly crosses and recrosses the stream. 

 There is plenty of wood, but nothing of a peculiarly large 

 or striking character. Where the two rivulets forming 

 tlie sources of the Abastumanska unite their waters, our 

 way struck up the hillside, and we gained a considerable 

 height, by a long series of zigzags. A carriage-road over 

 this pass has been traced, and partially cut, from Achalt- 

 zich to the summit, and a little way down the other 

 side. A few bridges have also been built, but some of 



