A FOREST RIDE. 477 



between tlie green liillsides, seemed to float in bine haze 

 rather than to belong- to earth. The narrow trench 

 g-radually expanded, leavmg space for occasional patches 

 of cultivated ground. Cornfields were in time succeeded 

 by plantations of the tobacco-plant, the bright-gTeen 

 leaves of which are in their natural state always a pleasing 

 sight. At the corners of many of the enclosures, which 

 are generally surrounded by rough fences, we noticed 

 raised wooden platforms ; these are said to be look-out 

 posts, where a watchman keeps guard against the depre- 

 dations of the bears which abound in the forest. Below 

 the junction of the two glens the valley widens, and is 

 dotted with numerous clusters of cottages. Fruit-trees 

 now become plentiful ; the plum, the pear, and the medlar 

 grow wild, and the vine trails its long branches over the 

 forest trees. 



The new road was in course of construction, and we 

 found parts in a sufficiently forward state to enable us to 

 ride along it. The valley, having trended north-west for 

 some distance, turned due north, and a village stood on the 

 opposite bank of the stream. From this point, the hills 

 sank rapidly, and our horsemen pointed out the position 

 of Bagdad in the distance. It was dark, and the wood- 

 cutters' fires blazed out cheerily, high upon the hillsides, 

 before we reached our resting-place. Bagdad is situated 

 close to the point at which several valleys open on to the 

 plain. Tlie village consists of one street, with houses on 

 either side ; there were plenty of people about, but they 

 one and all refused us shelter for the night ; we were 

 getting angry and perplexed at this final specimen of 

 Mingrelian manners and hospitality, when one of the 

 peasants suggested that a French baron lived half a mile 

 off, and that we might find lodgings with him. We 

 guessed rightly that there could not be two French barons 



