4h2 TRANSCAUCASIA. 



panied by a map of tlie glaciers on the eastern flank of the 

 mountain. Much of the information we derived from him 

 has been embodied in previous pages. 



We had intended to remain two days, and spend the 

 second in an excursion to the celebrated monastery of 

 Ghelathi, founded at the end of the eleventh century by 

 a Mingrelian sovereign, which is celebrated alike for the 

 interest of its architecture, and the venerable images and 

 ecclesiastical wealth it contains. We heard, however, such 

 disquieting reports of the irregularity of the Sunday steamer 

 on the Rion, that it seemed more prudent to follow the 

 example of most of our fellow-travellers, and start twenty- 

 four hours sooner than we had proposed. To this end an 

 arrangement was concluded with the postmaster, the 

 same man who had given us trouble on our former visit, 

 by which he undertook to provide a ' tarantasse ' and horses 

 at midnight on Friday — the usual time for starting, as the 

 accommodation at Orpiri is bad, and the Rion steamer 

 leaves early in the morning. The money for the horses 

 was paid, and we believed the affair settled ; but at the 

 appointed hour no horses came, and on sending to the 

 post, we were told that the official had gone off to Orpiri, 

 leaving no instructions, and that if we wanted horses we 

 must pay over again, and make a present besides for the 

 favour of having them. The postmaster who had thus 

 sought to cheat us was described by a gentleman of 

 Kutais as a ' brigand du premier ordre,' and, unwilling to 

 become his victims, we visited two higher officials, from 

 one of whom we received an order that horses should be 

 given us directly, and no further payment asked. Let all 

 travellers beware of that pair of harpies, the mistress of 

 the ' Hotel de France,' and her friend the postmaster at 

 Kutais ! 



. We drove to Orpiri in pouring rain. During our voyage 

 down the river, the weather, though cloudy, was fine — a 



