488 THE CRIMEA. 



trace remains ; it is in the rnin caused by sieges tlaat war 

 stamps its most lasting mark. In the bullet-riddled walls 

 of the once handsome buildings, in the laboriously-wrought 

 labyrinths of lines and counterlines that encompass them, 

 in the shattered forts and demolished dockyards on the 

 water's edge, and, more than all, in the crowded burial- 

 grounds on the heights, it is easy to read the story of the 

 siege ; and, in gazing on them, one is led to appreciate 

 both the importance of the result, and the cost at which 

 it was obtained. 



Travelling in the Crimea is rendered more agreeable 

 than in most parts of Russia by the excellence of the 

 roads, combined with the civility and promptness met 

 with at the post-stations. These unusual phenomena 

 are in a great measure due to the fact, that this is the only 

 district of Russia where pleasure-travellers are understood, 

 and somewhat also to the pervading influence of the 

 Woronzoff family, at whose expense the greater part of 

 the coast-road was constructed. It is a very pleasant drive 

 from Sevastopol to Yalta, Simferoj)ol, Bakhchisarai, and 

 back. The entire distance can be got over in three days, 

 but five are the least that should be allowed, as it is 

 desirable to leave time for a visit to the villas on the coast, 

 and Bakhchisarai and its neighbourhood afford emj)loy- 

 ment for a long afternoon. 



Balaclava is the first post-station. While changing 

 horses we had time to climb to the old Genoese tower, 

 and look down, on one side on the landlocked creek, on 

 the other on the iron-bound coast on which the iU-fated 

 ' Prince ' struck and went to pieces. It is after a long- 

 inland climb that the road, in a gap between two wooded 

 hills, reaches the Gate of Baidar, a classical archway 

 built to mark the spot whence the traveller gains his first, 

 or last, view of the Garden of the Crimea. From the 



