494 HOME THROUGH RUSSIA. 



eager struggle to approacli and kiss these holy treasures. 

 In the catacombs, a long series of cellar-like vaults hewn 

 in the rock, a multitude of saints and pious virgins, each 

 in a separate niche, lie in open coffins robed in gorgeous 

 silks, the faces veiled, but a shrivelled finger protruding 

 to receive the kiss of the orthodox. The pilgrims, who 

 accompanied us through the vaults, laid small offerings on 

 the bodies of their favourite saints, which were collected by 

 the square-capped monk who brought up the rear of the 

 party. English visitors are few and far between at the 

 Lavra, and we excited a good deal of curiosity, though we 

 met with nothing but civility. 



Our first enquiries as to the best mode of continuing our 

 journey were met by the unpleasant news that, only ten 

 days before, the regular ' diligence ' service on all the lines 

 had been suspended, and the post ordered for the future to 

 travel in ' telegas.' Further researches resulted in the dis- 

 covery, that St. Petersburg by way of Vitebsk was more 

 accessible than Moscow by way of Koursk, the advantage in 

 distance (sixty miles) of the latter being more than counter- 

 balanced by the better road to Vitebsk. On calling at the 

 carriage bureau, at the post, we were lucky enough to see a 

 high official, who spoke excellent French, and was very civil 

 and glad to see us, for he had a lady in charge desirous of 

 making the same journey. We quickly agreed to take a 

 'diligence ' between us, and start on the morning of Monday 

 the 28th ; before the time came two other peoi)le were found 

 to occupy the vacant places. Tucker and I took the 

 * banquette,' and with pleasant weather and no dust, the 

 long drive was by no means disagreeable. 



The road was broad and metalled, and the stations, 

 mostly tenanted by Jews, well-fitted-up, at least compared 

 to those in the Caucasus. Our drivers were a constant 

 source of amusement. Sometimes a postilion rode one of 



