130 RESIDENCE AT CARACCAS. 



CHAP, xii the town, from which they had an extensive view of 

 — the mountain-plain, the ridge of the Gallipano, and the 

 summit of tlie Silla. It was the season of drought, and 

 the conflagrations intended to improve the pasturage 

 produced tlie most singular effects when seen at night. 

 Uospitality. They experienced the greatest kindness from all 

 classes of the inhabitants, and more especially from the 

 captain-general of the province, M. de Guevara Vascon- 

 zelos. Caraccas being situated on the continent, and its 

 population less mutable than that of the islands, the 

 national manners had not undergone so material a 

 change. Notwithstanding the increase of the blacks, 

 says Humboldt, at Caraccas and the Havannah, we seem 

 to be nearer Cadiz and the United States than in any 

 other part of the New World. There was notliing to 

 be seen of the cold and assuming air so common in 

 Europe ; on the contrary, conviviality, candour, uniform 

 cheerfulness, and politeness of address, characterized the 

 natives of Spanish origin. The travellers found in 

 several families a taste for instruction, some knowledge 

 of French and Italian literature, and a particular 

 predilection for music. But there was a total deficiency 

 of scientific attainments ; nor had the simplest of all the 

 physical sciences, botanyj a single cultivator. Previous 

 to 1806 there were no printing-offices in Caraccas. 

 Irifiiffcr- Believing that in a country which presents such en- 



ence of the chanting views, and exhibits such a profusion of natural 

 productions, he should find many persons well ac- 

 quainted with the surrounding mountains, Humboldt 

 yet failed to discover one individual who had visited the 

 summit of tlie Silla. Bat the governor having ordered 

 the proprietor of a plantation to furnish the philosophers 

 with negro guides who knew something of the way, 

 they prepared for the ascent. 

 Ascent of tlie As in the whole month of December the mountain 

 Silla. jj^^j appeared only five times without clouds, and as at 



that season two clear days seldom succeed each other, 

 they were advised to choose for their excur.'»iuu an inter- 

 val when, the clouds being low, they might hope, by 



