220 



CHANGE OF SCENERY. 



Slow pro- 

 gress. 



CHAP XVIII. and the constitution of the atmosphere. The trees were 

 —7^ of a different species ; the mosquitoes had entirely dis- 

 appeared ; and the waters, instead of being turbid and 

 loaded with earthy matter, were of a dark colour, clear, 

 agreeable to the taste, and four degrees cooler. So 

 great is their transparency, tliat the smallest fishes are 

 distinguishable at tlie depth of twenty or thirty feet ; 

 and the bottom, which consists of white quartzy sand, 

 is usually visible. The banks covered with plants, 

 among which rise numerous palms, are reflected by the 

 surface of the river with a vividness almost as bright as 

 that of the objects themselves. Above the mission no 

 crocodiles occur, but their place is supplied by bavas 

 and fresli-water dolphins. The chiguires, howling- 

 monkeys, and zamuro-vultures had disappeared, though 

 jaguars were still seen, and the water-snakes were 

 extremely numerous. 



On the 26th the travellers advanced only eight or 

 ten miles, and passed the night on a rock near the 

 Indian plantations of Guapasoso. At two in the morning 

 they again set out, and continued to ascend the river. 

 About noon the\' passed the granitic rock named Piedra 

 del Tigre, and at the close of the day had great difficulty 

 in finding a suitable place for sleeping, owing to the 

 inundation of the banks. It rained hard from sunset, 

 and as tlie missionary had a fit of tertian fever they re- 

 ombarked immediately after midnight. At dawn they 

 landed to examine a gigantic ceiba-tree, which was 

 nearly 128 feet in height, with a diameter of fifteen or 

 sixteen feet. On the 29th the air was cooler, but 

 loaded with vapours, and the current being strong they 

 advanced slowly. It was niglit when they arrived at 

 tile mission of San Baltasar, where they lodged with a 

 C.italan priest, a livel^^ and agreeable person. The 

 village was l)uilt with great regularity, and the planta- 

 tions seemed l^etter cultivated than elsewhere. 



At a late hour in tlie morning they left his abode, 

 and after ascending the Atabapo for five miles entered 

 the Rio Tcmi. A granitic rock on the western bank of 



GleanHc 

 ceiba-Ueo. 



