CATARACTS OF ATURES. 241 



scarcely perceptible at the horizon, which seemed illu- chap, xix 



minated by the great nebulie of tlie southern hemi- MghTsceiiu. 



sphere. Multitudes of insects diffused a reddish light 



over the air. The ground, profusely covered witli 



plants, shone with those living and moving lights as if 



the stars of the firmament had fallen upon the savannali. 



On leaving the cave, we repeatedly stopped to admire 



the beauty of this extraordinary place. The scented 



vanilla and festoons of bignoniee decorated its entrance ; 



while the summit of the overhanging hill was crowned 



by arrowy palm-trees that waved murmuring in the air." 



Similar caves are said to exist to the north of the Tombs of the 

 cataracts ; but the tombs of the Indians of the Orinoco ^°'^'^"^- 

 have not been sufficiently examined, because they do 

 not, like those of Peru, contain treasures. 



The travellers staid at the mission of Atures only so rassape ( , 

 long as was necessary for the passage of their canoe j'l'nsf"^"' 

 through the great falls. The priest, Bernardo Zea, who 

 had accompanied them to the Rio Negro, remained 

 behind. His ague had not been removed ; but its 

 attacks had become an habitual evil, to which he now 

 paid little attention. Fevers of a more destructive kind 

 prevailed in the establishment, insomuch that the 

 greater part of the inmates were confined to their 

 hammocks. Again embarked on the Orinoco the tra- 

 vellers ventured to descend the lower half of the rapids 

 of Atures, landing here and there to climb the rocks, Rapids of 



2vturis> 



among which the golden manakin (^Pipra rupicola), one 

 of the most beautiful birds of the tropics, builds its nest. 

 At the Raudalito of Carucari they entered some of the 

 caverns formed by the piling up of granite blocks, and 

 enjoyed the extraordinary spectacle of the river dashing 

 in a sheet of foam over their heads. The boat was to 

 coast the eastern bank of a narrow island, and take 

 them in after a long circuit ; but it did not make its 

 appearance, and night approaching, together with a 

 tremendous thunder-storm, M. Bonpland was desirous 

 of swimming across, in order to seek assistance at Atures 

 from Father Zea. Humboldt, and the other person 



