TEA. 127 



spread out in them as before, being again turned with tho naked hand, and when 

 hot taken out and rolled ; after which, they are put into a drying basket and 

 spread on a sieve, which is in the centre of the basket, and the whole placed over 

 a charcoal fire. The fire is very nicely regulated ; there must not be the least 

 smoke, and the charcoal should be well picked. 



When the fire is lighted it is fanned until it gets a fine red glare, and the 

 smoke is all gone off; being every now and then stirred, and the coals brought 

 into the centre, so as to leave the outer edge low. When the leaves are put 

 into the drying basket, they are gently separated by lifting them up with the 

 fingers of both hands extended far apart, and aLowing them to fall down again ; 

 they are placed three or four inches deep on the sieve, leaving a passage in the 

 centre for the hot air to pass. Before it is put over the fire, the drying basket 

 receives a smart slap with both hands in the act of lifting it up, which is done 

 to shake down any leaves that might otherwise drop through the sieve, or to pre- 

 vent them from falling into the fire and occasioning a smoke, which would aifect 

 and spoil the tea. This slap on the basket is invariably applied throughout the 

 stages of tea manufacture. There is always a large basket underneath to re- 

 ceive the small leaves that fall, which are afterwards collected, dried, and added 

 to the other tea ; in no case are the baskets or sieves allowed to touch or remain 

 on the ground, but always laid on a receiver, with three legs. After the leaves 

 have been half-dried in the drying-basket, and while they are still soft, they are 

 taken off the fire and put into large open-worked baskets, and then put on the 

 shelf, in order that the tea may improve in color. 



Next day the leaves are all sorted into large, middling, and small ; sometimes 

 there are four sorts. All these, the Chinese informed me, become so many dif- 

 ferent kinds of teas ; the smallest leaves they call Pha-ho, the second Pow-chong, 

 the third Souchong, and the fourth, or the largest leaves, Zoy-chong. After 

 this assortment they are again put on the sieve in the drying-basket (taking care 

 not to mix the sorts), and on the fire, as on the preceding day ; but now very 

 little more than will cover the bottom of the sieve is put in at one time ; the 

 same care of the fire is taken as before, and the same precaution of tapping the 

 drying basket every now and then. The tea is taken off the fire with the nicest 

 care, for fear of any particles of the tea falling into it. Whenever the drying- 

 basket is taken off, it is put on the receiver, the sieve in the drying-basket taken 

 out, the tea turned over, the sieve replaced, the tap given, and the basket placed 

 again over the fire. As the tea becomes crisp, it is taken out and thrown into a 

 large receiving-basket, until all the quantity on hand has become alike dried 

 and crisp, from which basket it is again removed into the drying-basket, but now 

 in much larger quantities. It is then piled up eight and ten inches high on the 

 sieve in the drying-basket ; in the centre a small passage is left for the hot air 

 to ascend ; the fire that was before bright and clear has now ashes thrown on it 

 to deaden its effect, and the shakings that have been collected are put on the top 

 of all ; the tap is given, and the basket, with the greatest care, is put over 

 the fire. Another basket is placed over the whole, to throw back any heat that 

 may ascend. Now and then it is taken off, and put on the receiver ; the hands, 

 with the fingers wide apart, are run down the sides of the basket to the sieve, 

 and the tea gently turned over, the passage in the centre again made, &c., and 

 the basket again placed on the fire. It is from time to time examined, and when 

 the leaves have become so crisp that they break by the slightest pressure of 

 the fingers, it is taken off, when the tea is ready. All the different kinds of 

 leaves underwent the same operation. The tea is now, little by little, put into 

 boxes, and first pressed down with the hands and then with the feet (clean 

 stockings having b^en previously put on). 



There is a small room inside of the tea-house, seven cubits square, and five 

 high, haying bamboos laid across on the top to support a network of bamboo, 

 and the sides of the room smeared with mud to exclude the air. When there is 

 wet weather, and the leaves cannot be dried in the sun, they are laid out on the 

 top of this room, on the network, on an iron pan, the same as is used to heat the 

 leav.es ; some fire is put into it, either of grass or bamboo, so that the flame may 

 ascend high ; the pan is put on a square wooden frame, that has wooden rollers 

 on its legs, and pushed round and round this little room by one man, while 



