464 HISTOEY AND METHODS OF THE FISHEEIES. 



times 8 or 10 miles into the country in different directions. It all appeared much the same. Saw here and there a 

 bush, on some of which were a few indifferent berries. About 6 miles from the fort and 2 miles from the sea-shore is 

 a body of salt, about 2 miles long and above a mile wide, perfectly dry, so that we conld walk over it. Being per- 

 fectly white the appearance was beautiful. The winter rains dissolve it, but in the summer it is dry and about 2 or 

 3 inches in thickness. The Indians brought us on their horses about 200 bushels, for which we paid a trifle. The 

 salt lay higher than the ocean, so that I do not think it is sea salt. All the laud about the place seemed saturated 

 with salt. It was not uncommon to see small patches of salt a few feet square. The weather was very fine aud 

 pleasant. Both the Indians and the soldiers enjoyed excellent health. The tide ebbed and flowed about 16 feet, and 

 it was high water on the sea-board at the full and change a little before 12 o'clock. 



We lived on the most friendly terms with the Spaniards. The clergyman we esteemed and respected very highly. 

 He was a very excellent man and frequently dined with us. 



On the 10th of February the brig Hetty, Captain Robertson, of and from New York, stopped here. Had been out 

 five months, and had on board six thousand hair-seal skins salted, taken on the coast to the northward. 



On the 16th of February we sailed from Port Desire, leaving our shallop with the Spaniards, according to con- 

 tract. During our six weeks' stay at Port Desire we had taken all the seals in the islands, much to the astonishment 

 of the Spaniards, who expected us to work in their own indolent manner. We felt but little regret at leaving the 

 commandant, who was an overbearing " blowed-up-with-a-quill fellow;" but for the commissary, who was a high- 

 minded Castillian, and had seen better days, and the padre, or priest, who was intelligent and all goodness, there 

 was something inexpressibly unpleasant in leaving them in such a country with no possibility of ever seeing them 

 again. It was some time before we neglected occasionally to drink better times to Rosseau, the commissary, and the 

 padre, and " reformation " to the commandant. 



After a passage of four days we anchored again at West Point, Falkland Islands, about. 4 miles from our old 

 anchorage. We were wooded and watered and took on board about a dozen hogs, part of which were some that we 

 brought from America. They had doubled in numbers ; some of the pigs had gone off, but we got all the old ones. We 

 had also left two turkeys and two goats, which we found on our return. We also got from the garden which we 

 had left, 7 bushels of potatoes, which were very important to us, as we had no other vegetables on board. On the 

 28th we put to sea, but on the 29th, the weather being bad, we were very glad to get back again, where we lay wind- 

 bound until the 6th of March. At this time we put up a quantity of mussels in the manner of pickled oysters, and 

 they kept quite good. 



It was getting late in the season for doubling Cape Horn, as it was now a fall month. We had determined, how- 

 ever, to make the best of our way for Mas-a'-Fuera, or the lesser Juan Fernandez, as it is sometimes called, the only 

 place we could now calculate on for making up our cargo of fur-seal skins. 



On the 6th of March, 1798, we left the Falkland Islands to double Cape Horn. We intended going through the 

 Straits Le Maire, but adverse winds prevented. We wished to do it, if possible, as it would be gaining westing, which 

 is important in going round the cape, aud we had no idea of attempting to pass through Straits of Magellan. The 

 boatswain of our ship had been through there once in a Spanish ship, and was four months getting through. It is a 

 crooked, difficult passage, and can never be preferred to going round. We had heavy weather most of the time, and 

 March 23, when we got the ship's head to the northward, considered ourselves round. Our latitude then was 58 56 

 south and longitude 77 58' west. On the 19th we had our greatest southing, being in latitude 60 south, and had 

 the severest weather, splitting several of our sails and getting pretty well loaded with ice. On the 28th, in latitude 

 49 54' south, longitude 85 30' west, we saw kelp weed, which we considered as indicating land. The Duke of York's 

 Islands are said to be about here, but their existence is very doubtful. On the 1st of April av small yellow land-bird 

 came on board, and after getting rested left us, taking a correct course for the shore, although we were several degrees 

 from it. About this time we opened a half barrel of sauerkraut put up in America, which was excellent, and I shall 

 always recommend it to be put up in the same manner for long voyages. The cabbage was cut up small, thrown into 

 salt and water overnight, then packed in layers with pepper, pimento, cloves, and vinegar. Our mussels put up as 

 pickled oysters were also fine. 



SEALING AT MAS-A'-FUERA AND JUAN FERNANDEZ. 



On April llth we made the Island of Juan Fernandez, which is high mountainous land. The Spaniards have a 

 garrison here. The next day we landed on Mas-fi-Fuera, the former residence of Alexander Selkirk, where we took part 

 of our crew on shore, leaving enough on board to work the ship as we were obliged to stand off and on, there being 

 no harbor or good anchorage. We found here a boat's crew left by a New Bedford whaleman to take seal, the vessel 

 intending by and by to call and take them off; and part of the crew of the ship Betsey, of New York, Captain Fanning, 

 having secured skins and proceeded to Canton , these men wishing to try their chances on the island. We also found an 

 English sailor lad named Bill, who had been left alone here several months before. He was contented with his situa- 

 tion and said he could get everything ho wanted but bread and rum. He lived in a cave alone and was collecting seal- 

 skins, calculating to sell them as vessels touched there. He brought off and sold us sixty skins, on which he would 

 fix no price beyond filling his keg with rum which only held about 2 gallons. He said he wanted nothing more at 

 that time, with that he would feel rich enough, as he had plenty of bread. As we were unwilling to receive so many 

 skins for less than one tenth of their value we were at a loss how to pay him. He did not even want any more ruin, 

 and though we mustered something else and gave him it was not half enough. He left us, apparently as happy as a 

 lord, saying ho enjoyrd himself better on the island than lie ever did before in his life. He could sleep when he 

 pleased, aud work when he pleased; there was "no starboard nor liu-board watch," ami " no one to quarrel with." He 



