CUTTINGS 119 



In taking the cuttings do not sever them from the parent plant 

 by means of a knife, but break off side shoots close to the main 

 shoot, so as to leave what gardeners call a " heel," i.e. an oval- 

 shaped base. Trim the ragged edges of this base, and place the 

 trimmed shoots upright in the trench, taking care that the base 

 is pressed firmly against the sanded bottom. Having thus 

 carefully placed all the cuttings in position, at a distance from 

 each other of six inches, shovel the earth into the trench, with 

 the foot treading it firmly against the cuttings, and then rake 

 lightly between the rows. This operation is carried out in the 

 early autumn. In the following spring one or two cuttings may 

 be dug up for examination, and after shaking off the soil from 

 the base the adventitious roots should be noted, and a drawing 

 made. Note also the protective callus, partly covering the cut 

 surface and produced by the cambium. By the following spring 

 that is to say, about twenty months from the date of planting 

 a good mass of roots will have been produced, and the plants 

 will be ready for placing in their permanent quarters. In 

 removing them the ball of earth enclosed by the roots should 

 be disturbed as little as possible. The rooted cuttings of Thorn 

 and Privet may, if necessary, be used for making a hedge, and 

 for this purpose should be planted in a double row at a distance 

 of three inches between the plants and six inches between the 

 rows. The Syringa, Laurel, or Lilac plants may be planted in 

 corners of the garden. The Lavender plants may either be dis- 

 tributed among the students' plots or used to make a Lavender 

 bed, in which case they are planted in rows, giving them a space 

 of fifteen inches each way. It will, of course, be understood 

 that it is not essential when planting the cuttings to set apart 

 a separate bed for the purpose, as, if thought fit, each pupil may 

 plant half a dozen on his or her own individual plot. 



As indicated above, the propagation of herbaceous perennials 

 by cuttings requires rather more skill and attention. The soil 

 must be fertile and well drained, and we shall require the 

 assistance of the hot-bed to promote adequate root formation 

 before the winter comes on. The operation should be effected 

 rather earlier than in the case of woody perennials, and not later 

 than the middle of September. Six-inch flower pots may be 



