1 04 TRAVELS IN UPPER 



matter for a moment's thought. Turks, Arabians, 

 Barbaresques, Cophts, Christians of Syria, Jews, 

 constituted a population which may be estimated at 

 five thousand, as far as an estimation can be made 

 in a country where there is no register kept of any 

 thing. Commerce attracts thither besides, from all 

 the countries of the East, strangers whose residence 

 is extremely transient. This motley assemblage ot' 

 the men of different nations, jealous of, and almost 

 always hostile to each other, would present to the 

 eye of the observer a singular mixture of customs, 

 manners, and dress, if a resort of thieves and rob- 

 bers could repay the trouble of observation. 



You see them crowd on each other in the streets, 

 running rather than walking: they likewise bawl 

 rather than speak. I have frequently stopped to 

 consider some persons who had all the appearance 

 of being agitated by violent rage : they gave to 

 their voice all the intensity which a broad and 

 brawny chest could supply ; their physiognomy 

 wore all the traits of passion ; their eyes sparkled ; 

 violent gestures accompanied modes of expression 

 which seemed still more violent. I approached 

 them under the apprehension that they were going 

 instantly to cut each others throats, and was asto- 

 nished to learn that they were only driving some 

 petty bargain, that not a word was of a threatening 

 4 complexion ; 



