l86 TRAVELS IN UPPER 



certain formal civilities, I should have dispensed 

 with making particular mention of these two in- 

 terpreters, without knowing whether they are still 

 within reach of hearing this expression of my gra- 

 titude ; but to them, and to their illuminated com- 

 plaisance, I stand indebted for the facility with 

 which I was enabled to make my observations in 

 countries of no easy access ; and travellers will 

 feelingly perceive the value of such encounters ; 

 for they know, as I do, how rare they are, 



I had heard mention made of a curious monu- 

 ment,a kind of antiquetomb, deposited in a mosque 

 without the precincts of Alexandria ; to no pur- 

 pose did I express a desire to see it ; I was assured 

 that the attempt would be dangerous, and withal 

 impracticable. The French consul and M. Adan- 

 son earnestly entreated me not to think of it. M. 

 Augustus, however, less timid, engaged to conduct 

 me thither by stealth, and without the privity of 

 other Frenchmen. A janisary of the factory ac- 

 companied us : the scheick of the mosque, mum 

 as called by the Turks, cureby the Christians, was 

 waiting for us, and we were permitted to examine 

 every thing tolerably at our leisure, in considera- 

 tion of a certain douceur agreed upon between M, 

 Augustus and the priest. This temple is very an- 

 cient ; it was reared by one of the Caliphs ; the 



walks 



