AND LOWER EGYPT. 11$ 



robbers ; while at Cairo, the European, confined 

 to his own home, or, at least, to a narrow quarter 

 of the town, trembling every moment for his life, 

 durst not shew his face amidst a confusion, an up- 

 roar, of which it is impossible to form an idea, 

 without having lived in this capital of Egypt. I 

 waited in expectation that the troubles would sub- 

 side, and permit me to enter on the execution of 

 my design ; but wearied out with the anxious state 

 of inaction to which I was reduced, tired of living 

 the life of a recluse, and seeing no prospect of the 

 era when Egypt was to resume a tranquillity which 

 could admit of travelling through it without being 

 exposed to certain danger, I resolved on returning 

 to Rossetta, a privileged country, which the com- 

 motions of the rest of Egypt did not reach, and in 

 which the stranger had it in his power to walk 

 about unmolested, especially if he had the pru- 

 dence to conform to the customs of the country. 



I had, at Cairo, laid aside my European dress, 

 and assumed the Turkish habit. To this I was 

 obliged to make a sacrifice of my hair ; an enor- 

 mous turban, a la Druse, enveloped, in various 

 rounds, my close-shaven head, and sheltered it 

 from the attacks of an ardent sun ; vestments long 

 and wide, which a silken girdle hardly confined, 

 covered my body, without compressing it, and left 

 every limb perfectly at case. No part is cramped, 



p 4 nothing 



