CHAPTER ir. 



An-ival at Cayenne.— Flamingos.— Curlews, &c.— Vegetable productions 

 of Cayenne.— La Gabrielle. — Cock of the Rock.— Grand Gobe-mouclie. 

 — Surinam. — The Coryntin. — New Amsterdam. — Stabroek, now 

 George Town. — Produce of Demerara. — Slavery. — A traveller's neces- 

 saries— Walking barefoot. — The best costume,— Humming-birds. — 

 Cotinga. — Campanero, or Bell-bird, — Toucans, or Toucanets. — Beak 

 of the Toucan — Evanescence of the colours — The only mode of 

 preserving them. 



On the fourteenth day after leaving Pernambuco, the 

 brig cast anchor off the island of Cayenne. The entrance 

 is beantiful. To windward, not far off, there are two bold 

 Avooded islands, called the Father and Mother ; and near 

 them are others, their children, smaller, though as beautiful 

 as their parents. Another is seen a long way to leeward of 

 the family, and seems as if it had strayed from home, and 

 cannot find its way back. The French call it " I'enfant 

 perdu." As you pass the islands, the stately hills on the 

 main, ornamented with ever- verdant foliage, show you that 

 this is by far the sublimest scenery on the sea-coast, from 

 the Amazons to the Oroonoque. On casting your eye to- 

 wards Dutch Guiana, you will see that the mountains 

 become unconnected, and few in number, and long before 

 you reach Surinam the Atlantic wave washes a flat and 

 muddy shore. 



Considerably to windward of Cayenne, and about twelve 

 leagues from land, stands a stately and towering rock, called 



