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The tops of the raspberries are biennial, the roots perennial. 

 The canes that were covered during the winter will bear the 

 fruit and then begin to die. As soon as they are thruogh bear- 

 ing they should be cut out close to the ground, and carried away. 

 In the meantime, the roots have sent up new canes which will 

 bear the following season. In October the mulch can again be 

 dug under, and the canes buried in earth just before the ground 

 freezes. This method can be kept up a long time. Plantations 

 of raspberries have remained productive for twenty years, but 

 usually they begin to fail after ten or twelve. They should then 

 be dug out and plantings made upon new ground, and three or 

 more years elapse before returning them to the same spot. 



From three to five canes are enough to leave in a hill. • The 

 number depends upon the vigor and branching habit of the variety. 



If one does not like the method of cultivation by mulching, 

 he can keep the soil clean and mellow by the frequent use of the 

 hoe. I prefer a long blunt-pointed one that goes deeply into the 

 ground "without cutting the roots. But I think that in garden 

 culture the mulching is of great advantage, not only in keeping 

 the ground moist, mellow and rich, but in preserving the fruit 

 from being splashed with mud by the heavy showers often pre- 

 valent at the time of ripening. I have seen many quarts spoiled 

 from this cause. 



Where the hardy varieties are raised, the treatment may be 

 the same, with the exception of winter covering, which is not 

 needed. If the blackcap varieties are cultivated in the garden, 

 the plants may be set three feet apart in a single row\ Twenty 

 plants of the Doolittle, and the same number of Mammoth Clus- 

 ter will abundantly supply a large family. If the latter can be 

 •placed in a cool moist place on the north side of a wall, the sea- 

 son of fruit will be greatly prolonged. 



