The Rose Manual. 259 



to keep it within bounds. I have seen fine plants of many of the roses 

 now described totally ruined for one year by the^ free use of the knife. 



Where manure cannot be conveniently obtained, fresh soil from the 

 woods or rich grounds will be of great service ; an occasional watering 

 with soap suds is also very beneficial to the rose. In city gardens we 

 have often seen a few inches of very common poor soil thrown over clay, 

 old bricks, lime rubbish, &c., whereon roses were planted, and grew well 

 the first season, but the following they made barely sufficient wood and 

 foliage to keep them green ; the result was unsatisfactory, and the fault 

 laid to the rose ; whereas the whole fault was in the preparation of the 

 ground. " Any thing that is worth doing at all, is worth doing well," is 

 a maxim always to be kept in mind in all gardening operations. — {Id. pp. 

 29, 30, and 31.) 



Planting and Management of Pillar Roses. — For a variegated pillar 

 choose plants of the same growth, and plant them in a rectangular form, 

 allowing the pole or pillar to occupy the centre. The first season after 

 plantmg they should be watered twice a week, in dry weather ; if water- 

 ing cannot be attended to, cover the soil with three or four inches of ma- 

 nure. For pillars or trellising, plants on their own roots are the best. 

 The pruning of these require to be performed in a very different manner 

 from that usual for the generality of roses. Those plants that make very 

 long shoots, should have only about a foot or two of the tops cut off", the 

 wood of three or four years old thinned out, and the short shoots or twigs 

 cut in to within two eyes of the preceding year's growth. They require 

 to be tied to a strong post ; if permanency is the object, use red cedar or 

 locust for the purpose ; in the country, where wood is plenty, any sapling 

 can be taken ; if three or six inches of the branches are left on it, the ef- 

 fect will be improved. Although rich soil is strongly recommended for 

 these roses, they will nevertheless do on any soil. I have seen them in 

 the very poorest earth make fine bushes when they can be pruned as common 

 garden roses, only the luxuriant beauty of the foliage, and the large size 

 of the flowers will be lost. It must be admitted that plants, trees, and 

 shrubs, grown and protected by nature, are in their greatest beauty, and 

 bring forth their flowers, fruits, and seeds to perfection ; yet while this is 

 conceded, we say that those plants, brought up and nurtured by art, un- 

 der every exciting cause, to produce the greatest amount of wood, foli- 

 age, flowers, and fruits, also require skilful assistance in depriving them 

 of their superabundance, to keep them within bounds, and lead them to 

 the space they are intended to occupy. The period best adapted for prun- 

 ing is subject to various opinions ; but extensive practice and sound judg- 

 ment give the preference to the months of November and December. 

 Pruning in the spring should be avoided, as the sap is then drawn towards 

 the extremities of the shoots, and when these are shortened the lower 

 buds will be found more dormant, and will require some time to move, 

 whereas by fall pruning the sap in the spring flows instantly to the buds 

 that are left on the plant, which are at once strengthened, and prepared 

 to push out as early as the season will permit. The first season after 

 roses are trans])lanted they should be watered once or twice a week in dry 

 weather, or should have placed all round the plant, moss or manure, to 

 prevent evaporation, or the sun from parching the earth and drying the 

 young rootlets. It is lamentable to see the destruction of plants the first 

 season, from mere carelessness and want of attention ; whereas a few 



