260 The Rose Manual. 



judicious waterings would have prevented the loss. — Id. pp. 70, 71, and 



72. 



Planting Roses. — We have advocated November and December as the 

 best period for pruning ; these are also the best months for planting all 

 kinds of roses of the hardy sorts that bloom once a year, or what are term- 

 ed " Hardy Garden Roses," unless the soil be of a wet and retentive na- 

 ture ; in such case the planting should be deferred till spring. The 

 ground must be well prepared by deep digging, and well incorporated 

 with old rotten manure, decayed leaves, or soil brought from the woods. 

 I am aware that some of my southern and western friends will smile at 

 this recommendation ; for their soils are from three to twelve feet deep, 

 and will grow roses, without any artificial means, for the next century; 

 but these suggestions are only offered to those who need them. Before 

 the operation is begun, the mind should be made up on the proper dispo- 

 sition of the plants: avoid crowding, avoid formality, avoid hurry. 

 Crowding plants together is injurious in every respect ; if space is limited 

 choose the fewer sorts, or distribute the inferior sorts to hedge rows or 

 fences, and put only the best that can be had, where they are to form a 

 permanent attraction ; formality of design attracts attention for a time, 

 but the eye soon wearies of it. The most interesting disposition, and 

 one that will offer the greatest variety, is to plant the whites, blushes, 

 pinks, roses, reds, crimsons and purples, each in separate clumps, figures, 

 or patches ; and to carry out a grand arrangement, let each division of the 

 rose have its appropriate locality. This Rosary can be formed on any 

 piece of ground, from a quarter of an acre to any required extent, either 

 on the lawn or any other spot for the purpose. Let the ground be 

 laid down in grass, or if it is there already so much the better ; then 

 cut out on the grass the various figures that may be required, giving 

 every plant from two to four feet of room. With these few hints the 

 reader will see that such an arrangement will form a scene of enchant- 

 ment that language cannot portray. It is not necessary to remove the old 

 soil ; very decayed manure (with an addition of road or river sand to 

 heavy sdIIs) well incorporated with it, twelve to eighteen inches deep, is 

 all that is required. — Id. pp. 72 and 73. 



Propagation of Garden Roses. — There are three modes, within the 

 reach of all, for the propagation of these roses, namely, by layering, 

 budding, and grafting. Layering, wherever it can be accomplished, is 

 preferable, and will produce the most permanent plants. There are two 

 methods of performing the operation ; the one we prefer is as follows : — 

 In the month of July, or two first weeks of August, look over the plants 

 required to be propagated, and take any of the young shoots that have 

 made eighteen inches or two feet in length, bend them gently to the 

 ground, and make fast by a peg, stone, or block ; they will in a few days 

 take a set in this form ; then under the part that has come in contact with 

 the soil, make a hole four inches deep, and about the same width ; have 

 a portion of prepared sandy rich loam (if your soil is not naturally such) 

 at hand ; bend the shoot in the hole, and look for a bud so situated as to 

 come about three inches under the surface ; then take a very sharp knife 

 and commence by cutting off all the leaves that will be under ground ; in- 

 troduce the blade just below the bud and cut upwards so as to cut about 

 half-way through, and make a slit about two inches long, thereby forming 

 what gardeners call a " tongue ;" this should be done at the side or back 



