The Rose Manual. 261 



part of the shoot, and to prevent the tongue from closing introduce a por- 

 tion of the soil, or a chip of any hard substance, which will keep it open, 

 then lay it carefully in the space prepared, and fill up with the fresh com- 

 post, leaving the top of the shoot in as upright a position as possible ; to fin- 

 ish, mak(? it fast to a small rod to prevent the wind from blowing it about. 

 The tongue should not be in the very spot that forms the bow, as thereby 

 the branch would be too much weakened ; the lower eye of the upright 

 portion of tlie shoot is the most successful spot. When the whole is 

 done place the stone or block on the surface, over the layer, which will 

 prevent the sun from drying the earth, and greatly facilitate the growth of 

 the roots. In the month of November the layers that are rooted may be 

 taken off, and either potted as required, or planted out where they are to 

 remain, heading down the shoot to within three or four eyes of the sur- 

 face. Those that are not rooted will have to remain another year ; prune 

 them the same as directed for the parent plant. If the operation by lay- 

 ering is not performed in the summer it can be done in February, March, 

 or April, before the plant has begun to grow, observing the same direc- 

 tions as given above. About Philadelphia we have pots made abour four 

 inches wide and deep, with a cut in the side wherein we place the layer, 

 and either plunge the pot entirely under ground, set it on the surface, or 

 elevate it as required ; if in the two latter positions, we water it freely 

 every evening, and cover it with moss or some other litter, to prevent, as 

 much as possible, the sun from affecting it. We also make boxes for the 

 same purpose wherein to lay shoots from the Standard or Tree Roses. — 

 Id. pp. 78, 79 and 80. 



Noisette Lamarque. — This is a celebrated variety, now known over the 

 whole country for its magnificent, large, perfectly double, yellowish- 

 white, pendulous flowers, which it produces in clusteis of three to ten in 

 each. In good dry, rich soils it will grow twenty feet in a season, and in 

 South Carolina, one of my correspondents informs me, that their plant 

 now eight years old, covers a veranda fifty feet long and twenty feet high, 

 and is one mass of flowers from May to December. There is also a plant 

 in this city, that occupies twenty feet by eight of a fence that faces north 

 where it is influenced by the morning and evening sun, but the sun, from 

 November to March, never touches the plant, confirming the opinion that 

 in winter the sun does more injury to delicate roses than the cold. This 

 plant does much better on its own roots than when budded or grafted. 

 The plant that I imported of it in 1833 is budded on the French Dog 

 Rose, and makes a very fine standard, but bears no comparison with the 

 magnificent plants that have been grown from it, although cherished and 

 nurtured in my city garden. — Id. p. 96. 



Growing Tea Roses in Frames. — A selection for this purpose, should 

 be made from the Tea, Bengal, and Bourbon families, all on their own 

 roots or budded very low. Presuming that these roses are already in pots, 

 or to be procured from the Nurserymen in the small * pot they are gener- 

 ally grown in for sale, they should at once be placed into those of six 

 inches in diameter, carefully and freely watered, during July and August, 

 cutting off all the flower buds they show in the latter month. About the 



* The plants for winter blooming should be ordered from the venders of an extra 

 size ; the very small plants sold at loic prices would defeat the object. 



