262 The Rose Manual. 



midddle of September, shorten the overgrown shoots, and thin out the 

 slender ones, turn the plants out of the pots, depriving them of some of the 

 soil, and repot in those of seven inches diameter, using a compost of sand, 

 turfy loam, and manure in equal proportions ; they will also grow admira- 

 bly in the black soil, from the woods, composed principally of decayed 

 leaves ; put several pieces of broken crockery in the bottom of the pot, 

 then a portion of soil ; place the plant so that its surface roots should be 

 under the rim of the pot, and then fill all round with the soil ; put them 

 in a situation partially shaded, — water sparingly, till they begin to grow — 

 then expose them fully to the sun, and water freely every day. There 

 they may remain till the middle or end of October, and in the South till 

 November, when they should be removed to the greenhouse or rooms, for 

 flowering. Previous to their removal, the pots should be washed, and the 

 plants neatly tied up. Thus treated they will mature all the buds they 

 will then show, and produce a profusion of flowers again in January and 

 February. Where there is the convenience of charcoal, it will be found 

 of prime utility in rose pot-culture, broken to the size of nuts and about 

 one fifth mixed with the soil ; the roots will delight to ramble through it, 

 and the foliage will be of a richer and. darker green ; the surface of the 

 soil must have frequent stirrings. The plants must be carefully examin- 

 ed, and whenever infested by the aphis, or green-fly, they should be des- 

 troyed, if in the greenhouse, by tobacco smoke. But, if in rooms, 

 that method cannot well be adopted, for the odor would penetrate into ev- 

 ery part of the dwelling. They should in that case be brushed off" into a 

 pail of water ; or the safest plan will be to make a strong tea of tobacco, 

 fill a pail with it, and while in a tepid state invert the plant therein, 

 holding the hand or a cloth over the surface of the pot, to prevent the 

 earth from tumbling out. Roses in pots are wonderfully benefited by a 

 watering of manure water about once in two weeks. This water is very 

 easily prepared either in town or country. The droppings from the horse 

 or cow stable put into a large tub or barrel, with water kept over it for 

 a week or two, occasionally stirred up ; the water then poured or drawn 

 off for use about the color of good tea; or one quart of Poudrette, put 

 into three gallons of water — stir it a few times, — in two days it will be 

 fit for use. A new species of manure from the Islands of the Pacific, 

 called Guano, the deposit of sea-fowls that has accumulated for centuries, 

 is very valuable for making liquid manure. A quarter of a pound, in 

 three gallons of water, frequently stirred before using, will be found very 

 nourishing ; indeed, one pound to sixteen gallons, will be strong enough 

 to use by the inexperienced, for if used much stronger than I have stated, 

 it would injure plants in pot culture. When required for the open ground, 

 watering with any of these liquids may be made stronger, or used more 

 frequently. — Id. pp. 165, 166, 167 and 168. 



The introduction of Whitney's Chemical Transparent 

 Composition for making frames of cotton sheeting translu- 

 cent, will be of great assistance in this mode of cultivat- 

 ing tender roses. It will wholly supersede the use of 

 glass; the small expense at which a small pit can be put 

 up for the protection of plants, is a great inducement for 

 amateurs of roses to plant out beds as advised by JMr. 

 Buist. 



