General Notices. 339 



thereabouts. They may remain there until growth Jias commenced, when 

 sun-light being indispensable to the welfare of the young plants, they 

 should be placed (if they were not previously) as near the glass as possi- 

 ble, sinking the pots as the plants reach the glass, but still keeping a 

 steady bottom-heat, and supplying them with air every day, if possible. 

 It is supposed that the heat of the frame or pit varies from 00° to 90° in 

 sunshine. When tlie pots are filled with roots, which will be some time 

 in April, they may be transferred at once into their fruiting-pots, which 

 should be 2s or 4s (14 or IG inches) according to the strength you wish 

 your vines to attain ; bearing in mind that those in the smaller size will 

 ripen their wood earlier, and consequently be available for forcing at an 

 earlier period than the others. This operation will bring us to a consid- 

 eration of the description of soil or compost most suitable for the vine. 

 When growing naturally out of doors the vine will flourish in a variety of 

 different soils and composts ; but when its roots are confined in so small 

 a space as a pot, we must place within the action of its roots that kind of 

 soil from which it can most readily assimilate the elements whicli consti- 

 tute its food. After trying nearly all the different composts recommended 

 by the numerous authors on the vine, I am convinced that the more sim- 

 ple the constituents of the soil are for it, or any other kind of pot-plant 

 the more successful will be the results. The compost I use is two thirds 

 turfy loam, from a down having a chalky bottom, and one third decom- 

 posed night soil. Should the loam be strong, I use the same proportion 

 of half-rotten horse droppings. The turves in the loam should only be 

 half decayed, and it should be used as rough as possible. 



After potting, the plants should be placed in some house or pit where a 

 temperature from G0° to 80°, or 85°, is maintained ; they should also be so 

 arranged that the shoots, as they advance, can be trained immediately 

 under the glass, and be exposed as much as possible to ihe light. Where 

 there is only a vinery they may be trained between the permanent vines, 

 or in any other place where the cultivator can make room for them. As 

 the shoots advance, train them carefully, and stop the laterals as they ap- 

 pear. When first potted, the plants will want but little water, but it must 

 be gradually increased as the pots become filled with roots; they Avill 

 then require it regularly during their growth, and manure water may oc- 

 casionally be given, although the quantity they demand the first season is 

 small in comparison to what they require afterwards. The most suitable 

 length of cane for pots is from four to six feet, but if, from any peculiarity 

 in the house in wliich they are to be fruited, a longer length may be re- 

 quired, they should be left accordingly, as the vine will grow strong 

 enough for fruiting, 8 or even 10 feet long. After it has grown a Ibot 

 more than the length required the next season, it should be stopped ; three 

 or four of the upper laterals, however, may be allowed to grow at a ^c'w 

 joints, to prevent the topmost eyes breaking. Manure water may now be 

 applied to cause the buds to swell, and care must be taken to preserve the 

 principal leaves, as they are now performing a most important part in re- 

 gard to the crop next season. When the wood appears to be turning 

 brown, or ripening, water should only be applied to prevent the vines 

 flagging, the laterals should be taken oft* and every means should be em- 

 ployed to ripen tlie wood perfectly. Indeed, if it is not convenient to 

 allow a large admission of air when they are growing, it would benefit 

 them much by removing them to a cool house, where they would have the 



