132 MV ARCTIC JOURNAL 



was laughing all the time, and when I gave her a cup of tea 

 and a cracker she changed her opinion of me at once. 



Mr. Peary walked to the Tyndall Glacier and took photos of 

 it, and of the village and the natives. Kyo then hitched up 

 the dogs, we said good-by all around, Ikwa included, and at 

 eight o'clock left for Ittiblu. 



To show how sharp these semi-savages are, I may mention 

 the following incident : On the way from Keati to Netchiolu- 

 my we dropped at different times three snow-shoes from our 

 sledge, but seeing Ikwa behind us pick them up, we did not 

 stop for them. On reaching Netchiolumy he brought them to 

 us, and said they were fine for us, were they not? We said yes. 

 " Well," he said, " if I had not picked them up you would not 

 have them, and as my eyes hurt me very much, and I see you 

 have them to spare, you should give me a pair of smoked 

 glasses." I thought so too, and he got what he asked for. 



We had the perfection of traveling. The surface of Whale 

 Sound was just rough enough to prevent it from being slip- 

 pery, and yet so smooth that the sledge went along as if it 

 were running on a track. 



Mr. Peary, Kyo, the driver, and myself were all three seated 

 upon the sledge, which in addition was heavily laden with 

 our sleeping-bags, equipment, provisions, etc., and yet the nine 

 handsome creatures, picked dogs of the tribe, who were pull- 

 ing us, immediately broke into a run, and, with tails waving 

 like plumes over their backs, kept up a brisk gait until we 

 reached Ittiblu at two o'clock in the morning ; the odometer 



