22 WINE AND THE ART OF WINE TASTING. 



wine; from it the taster receives his first impressions and begins to form 

 his opinion; this opinion is as yet, however, very relative, and rests only 

 on probabilities, as a good wine may possibly wear the aspect of a bad 

 one. 



" Limpidity and vivid color are favorable signs," writes Guyot, " but 

 they do not constitute high quality, though the contrary appearances 

 are real defects." 



Thus, though the eye may be pleased, the nose and palate may not be. 



The experienced taster will be able to tell, to a certain extent, whether 

 the color is natural and homogeneous, and so to a certain extent whether 

 it is artificial; in this latter case he will be able to make a probable 

 guess at the nature, vegetable or mineral, of the substances used to give 

 color to, or to enhance the color of, the wine. 



The estimation of the color of wine is very important, especially with 

 cutting wines which are to be mixed with others to obtain the type 

 demanded by customers. 







The eye having fulfilled its office, it is the turn of the olfactory organs. 



The sense of smell resides in the ample nasal cavities, and more 

 especially in the pituitary, the mucous membrane which lines them. 

 Odors, or better, infinitesimal particles of substance, reach this membrane 

 by means of the external organs of the olfactory apparatus, that is, by 

 the nostrils; they may also enter by the internal nostrils, the two open- 

 ings which put the nasal cavities in communication with the larynx. 



Physiologists admit that the sense of smell is not provoked only 

 during inspiration but also during expiration, though in the latter case 

 much more weakly. Thus, Franck tells us that it is during expiration 

 that we analyze the perfumes of wines. 



Besides the expiratory movements that we execute, sometimes quickly 

 and intermittently, sometimes slowly, in order to place fresh portions of 

 air in contact with the mucous membrane, the cavities formed by the 

 folds of the mucous membrane are of great aid in the perception of 

 odors, as the air laden with odorous particles accumulates in them, and 

 thus prolongs the impression. The mucous membrane may be more or 

 less sensitive according to its relative state of dryness or humidity, 

 which, as I have shown, are much affected by colds in the head. When 

 too dry the cellules are almost indurated, and when too moist they are 

 separated from the air by a watery layer which prevents their regular 

 action. 



As may be supposed from the foregoing, the sense of smell will receive 

 two impressions, or rather, will receive impressions at two different 

 times, the first before the wine is tasted, and the second when the tongue 

 and palate have almost finished their action; that is, when the taster 

 commences to swallow the wine. 



The sensations received the second time are various and very different 

 from those received at first. 



The first sensations are those caused by the readily volatile sub- 

 stances that the wine contains, and which are given off at the ordinary 

 temperature of the wine, and without other assistance than the shaking 

 and motion given to it by the hand of the taster. 



The second series, which is perceived during or after swallowing the 

 wine, is caused by the substances which are volatilized by the increased 

 temperature due to the heat of the mouth and to the wine being well 



