WINE AND THE ART OF WINE TASTING. 27 



SHARP, PUNGENT (Frizzante, Piccante, Wine vjhich has the Pinzo, It.; 

 Mordant, Piquant, Fr.). In this case there is a somewhat abundant 

 giving off of bubbles of carbonic acid when the wine is agitated, and 

 even after, which tend to cling to the sides of the glass. Some one has 

 written of a wine of this kind that "nel berlo bacid e morde" (it kisses 

 and bites); it makes itself felt as a smarting or pricking on the palate. 



" Sorb forse pill frizzante 

 Pili razente e piU piccante." Redi. 



This pricking is caused by the presence of a larger amount of carbonic 

 acid than is normal to the temperature and pressure. 



The Tuscan usage of "governo" imparts this character to a wine. 



" When the violent fermentation is over, throw in two handfuls of 

 dried grapes to each vat; this will make the wine clearer and more 

 piquant." Davanzati. 



However, Polacci rightly says: "For us a wine governato is always a 

 defective wine." 



FOAMING (Spumeggiante, It.; Ecumant, Fr.). This is said of wines 

 which contain so much gas that when they are agitated bubbles are 

 given off copiously, enough to form a layer of foam over the whole sur- 

 face of the liquid. In the words of Redi: 



" Che nei vetri zampilla, 

 Salta, spumeggia, e brilla." 



Wines which are bottled young, before they are well defecated, or 

 which contain sugar when bottled, easily become " spumeggiante " when 

 kept in a cool place. 



SPARKLING (Spumante, Mussante, It.; Mousseux, Fr.). This is said of 

 win.es which, after pouring into a glass, give off from every part an 

 abundant supply of bubbles of carbonic acid, or foam, which collects 

 at the surface and is continuously renewed for some time. The wine 

 bubbles, and as is commonly said, pearls the surface. 



In sparkling wines, the carbonic acid is in solution at a relatively 

 high pressure. 



In these wines, after the first violent ebullition of gas, there is what 

 is known as the "fontanella," sparkling, which is due to a continuous 

 development of very small bubbles of gas, which, starting from certain 

 points at the sides or bottom of the glass, rise like little chains of beads 

 to the surface, where they cause the phenomenon known as pearling. 



Of sparkling wines there are three grades, based upon the amount of 

 foaming, or rather on the amount of carbonic acid which is given off, 

 and on the length of time during which the foaming continues.* These 

 grades are: 



CREAMING, GENTLY SPARKLING (Mezzo spumante, It.; Cremant, Fr.). 

 These are wines in which only a slight layer of foam forms, and which 

 give off but a moderate amount of gas; that is, effervesce very slightly. 



The pressure exerted by these wines on the interior of the bottles is 

 less than three atmospheres. 



ORDINARY "SPARKLING, OR MEDIUM PRESSURE (Spumante, bella spuma, 

 It.; Mousseux ordinaires, Fr.). In these wines there is sufficient gas to 

 cause the foam to flow from the bottle the moment it is uncorked. The 



*The French have a fourth grade, which they call Tissane, and which includes second 

 and third-rate wines, which are, however, fairly drinkable. 



