of the Old World. 423 



we halted for the night in the dense forest that clothes 

 the lower spurs of these mountains, lighting huge fires 

 to keep away the wolves, which kind of " vermin " 

 were to be met with in packs, and bears' tracks were 

 not at all uncommon. Frequently during the night 

 we were alarmed by their infernal howling close at 

 hand, but they did not dare to approach our fire. 

 The next morning we got into the plain, and towards 

 noon arrived at a Circassian konac, where we were 

 made extremely welcome, more especially when our 

 guide, who was well known in the hamlet, told them 

 that I was an Englishman who had fought against 

 the Russians, both in the Crimea and in Asia Minor, 

 for at first they had taken me for one of " the 

 Faithful!' A comfortable log-hut was placed at my 

 disposal, with a shed for the horses, and Hoossain 

 obtained a bountiful supply of fowls, eggs, corn-flour, 

 and half a sheep, which was soon converted into a 

 savoury mess. After we had refreshed the inner 

 man, we held a "durbar," at which all the elders, 

 and indeed most of the inhabitants of the hamlet 

 attended ; and never, either in civilised or savage life, 

 have I seen a finer-looking race than the specimens 

 then before me. The men were all of noble stature, 

 stalwart, and muscular to a degree, with highly intel- 

 ligent countenances and strikingly handsome features, 

 the lower part of which were generally covered with 

 long flowing beards. The women were extremely 



